Lefkada Trails- Beach

Early Churches Walk

This trail combines visits to two historic locations important to Christians on Lefkada, with a visit to two amazing beaches. The walk starts and ends 2km to the west of Lefkada Town, and you can walk or take your car and park by the beach.

Christianity came to Lefkada very early, in AD 65 only 32 years after Jesus’s death. This trail follows the footsteps of the first Christians on Lefkada. It starts where they traditionally landed on the beach, and climbs to the first sanctuary, later monastery, high on the headland. The trail returns to the beach via a different path ending at a beach taverna.

The trail is short but climbs a fairly steep path up and a slightly less steep path back down. It is best to treat as a short hike rather than a walk.

5km easy
200m ascent.

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Just 2km outside Lefkada Town, either walk, take your car or a short taxi ride.

Lots of accommodation and tavernas in Lefkada Town. Tavernas too at the beaches at the start and end of the walk.

The trail starts on the Agios Ioannis beach on the western edge of Lefkada Town. Park anywhere on the side of the road. Start by walking west along to the end of the beach at a rocky headland.

Agios Ioannis beach and headland where this trail starts and ends.

Just up from the end of the beach is the small church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. This was the starting place of Christianity on Lefkada in 65 AD. According to tradition St Paul preached in a cave where the church is built.

Agios Ioannis Antzousi, founded in 65 AD, rebuilt later by the Franks.

It is known that Paul travelled through western Greece, spreading Christianity from Macedonia to the Ionian coast. He reached Nicopolis, the new Roman city, and spent the winter of 64-65 AD. This much is documented, and it is entirely possible he came to Lefkada. Indeed he travelled by ship which would have gone through the Lefkada canal. According to Lefkadian tradition, Paul came with his disciple Sosion, and later ordained him as the island’s first bishop.

A small church was built and dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and known today as the church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. Carved partly into the rock and shaded by olives, the chapel remains one of the island’s oldest sacred sites. Centuries later, the Angevin (Anjou) knights who ruled Lefkada restored it, giving it the name “Antzousi.” With its rough stone roof and quiet setting above the sea, it still feels like a place where the earliest Christians might have gathered in secrecy.

After viewing the church retrace your steps just past the Telegaphos Taverna. Continue along the beach for a short distance and take a small turning on the right, next to the beach blue flag and information sign.

Keep to the small road as it wiggles through the beach houses for a few hundred metres. When you come to a greener area with olive trees take a track going right. It wiggles right then left and comes to a road. Straight over the road is a narrow path between walls.

Take the path to a second road. Turn left and walk below the cliffs to an olive grove on the right. Take the track running on the right of a metal fence straight up a slope. At the top a monopati goes left and up the steep slope.

Turn right onto the track going up into the olive grove.

The monopati climbs steeply in zig zags as it traces a route up the hill to the top. As you get higher you get great views back across the bay below. As you get to the top you join a track near a gate, go left towards the road and the entrance to the monastery. If the monastery is open, the trail runs through the grounds where you can visit the small zoo, the church, a gift shop and a museum, exiting on the north side. If the monastery is shut, go left along the road around to the north gate.

The entrance to the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni

From the first coastal church, Bishop Sosion and the early believers moved inland. Climbing the wooded hill above the first church, they found an ancient temple of Artemis. There they built a new church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, marking the birth of Christian Lefkada’s spiritual heart—the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni. The name, meaning “the Revealed Virgin,” recalls the miracle of an icon of the Virgin that was said to have appeared to the monks who rebuilt the church. Artemis, the ancient god of motherhood and children was replaced by Mary.

By the 4th century AD, the sanctuary had become a monastery, serving as both a place of worship and a refuge for the faithful. Through centuries of Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule it endured, rebuilt many times after earthquakes and fires, most recently after the great blaze of 1886.

After you exit the north gate of the monastery, go right a short distance along the road and take the first track off left. This descends in a series of zig zags down the slope. They are not quite so steep as the way up, making your way a little easier.

As you near the bottom of the path a second smaller monopati goes off left. Take this through a last few turns to reach a road along some houses. Go left, take one last turn down, and reach the bottom of the hill. Go straight on across the first crossroads by the small church, walk another 150m and take the first left turn.

After the crossroads take the first turn left.

Keep going straight on along the road, ignoring minor turnings. After 400m you pass where you turned off to go up the hill, and then shortly after back to the beach.

The beach is wonderful with sand and rocks for swimming. To your left are a string of beach tavernas. To the right Agios Ioannis beach merges into Milos Beach with its old windmill towers. This a favoured location for kite-surfing, well worth watching their amazing acrobatics.

Meganisi Mountain and Beach Loop

Get the best of two worlds with this loop around a mountain on Meganisi island, starting high level with sweeping views, then back along the coast with coves and beaches. Starts and ends at the port where ferries arrive from Lefkada. Get a morning ferry over, do this walk, and take the late afternoon ferry back to Lefkada. Make sure you leave time for a swim and a fish supper, whilst waiting for the ferry back.

The walk is quite long but along easy tracks and then a road. As always take lots of water. Also your swimming clothes and a towel. It is possible to shorten the walk back, bypassing the walk along the coast. The trail is suitable for a mountain bike, and bikes can be rented in Nidri and Spartochori.

13.5km. 10km if taking a shortcut to Spartochori.
550m ascent.

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Take the ferry across to Meganisi from Nidri. It runs a few times a day with enough time between morning and later afternoon crossings to do this hike.

Tavernas in Spilia, the Meganisi ferry port. Accommodation and tavernas in Spartochori.

The route starts from Spilia port on Meganisi island where the ferry docks from Lefkada. The ferry runs from Nidri, most of the year three to five times a day – usually with morning and late afternoon ferries. It takes just 20 minutes and is very cheap for foot passengers. Just walk on and pay on board, no need to book. > Check online for the timetables that change every month. There are tavernas in both ports so easy if you have time to kill.

When you come off the ferry, head left on the road as it runs around the bay and starts to climb. After 300m there are some steps on the right that takes a shortcut across the zig-zags of the road. There are then another set of steps doing the same further up. You end up, either by road or steps, in a little square in the village of Spartochori, with great views back to Lefkada.

Take the road going up from the square, take the first fork right, then the second left until you reach the main road running through Spartochori with a few shops. Go left along the main road to a T junction where you go left then immediately right. Keep going straight on to a fork by a builders yard where you go right on the smaller road.

Keep going straight on and forking right, and the small road becomes a track, leaving Spartochori behind. The track runs for 3km down the eastern side of Meganisi, high up on the hill. You climb up further and both the track and the views get better and better. You run through ancient olive groves within water shaped limestone rocks. You get views first north over the mainland, then south east towards the Corinth Gulf, then south down the long tail of Meganisi. This part of the walk is stunning. Part way there is a metal gate across the road. It is easy to untie the rope and open – make sure you close and retie, it keeps animals in.

Shortly after passing the southmost point you pass the track that runs down the long tail of the island. This trail does not go that way as it is only there and back and about 7km each way. Feel free to divert if you are uber fit, otherwise continue on the track as it turns back north.

The start of the track down the long tail of Meganisi. We don’t go that way today, but you should be safe if you walk. It is a dead-end so allow time if you do venture down.

On the west side of the island you run into increasing signs of villa building projects. Unfortunately, this rather detracts from the ambience for a short section. After 1km you get to a fork where the road going left is new tarmac and the right track climbs up. We are going to go left to get down to the coast road, but the right fork is a track going straight back to Spartochori making a shortcut back to the ferry.

Walk left along the new road for 1.3km until you get to a road junction. Go left down the hill (if you go right it is a second shortcut to Spartochori along a road). After a few zig-zags down you reach the sea near a pretty church, a coffee bar and a pebbly beach. When you are ready take the road going right along the coast.

Walking back along the coast road with many great swimming spots.

You follow this coast road now right back to the ferry, 4km. It passes a series of beaches, big and small, as well as beach bars and small tavernas. They are only open in season, but very nice if so. If you walk out of season then it will be quieter but you need to take your own picnic and drink. Take your pick of wonderful places to swim in the clear waters.

After about 3km you get to the headland just before the ferry port. The road heads inland a little, though with nice trees for shade. There are three short climbs, the last one being the longest (don’t worry you are nearly there). At the top of the last hill the road forks – go left and back down and around to the ferry. If you go right it takes you to Spartochori.

The road at the first of three short climbs.

In the bay just past the ferry terminal are several tavernas – all good. A great place to wait for the next ferry. Also a great beach where you can swim safely (marked so boats can’t run you down). Don’t swim where the boats sail or dock.

Ag Nikitas to Mylos Beach

A short trail over the headland between Ag Nikitias and Mylos Beach. Mylos is one of the best beaches on the island. Ag Nikitas, too, is a pretty seaside village on the north west coast of Lefkada; with a nice beach and tavernas. A pleasant place to spend time. However 30 minutes walk takes you to a much larger and quieter beach. On the headland is an old windmill – hence Mylos Beach (the English word “mill” comes from the Greek word “Mylos”). The beach is almost all wonderful sand.

The walk is short, but up and down steep steps. So best to do it in the morning or evening in summer, or anytime the rest of the year. There are no tavernas or anything else at the beach, although a caravan serves drinks in peak season. So best to take what you need – and, of course, bring back all your rubbish.

Note that this is the only public-access trail to Mylos Beach. Two other tracks down to the beach are private and blocked with locked gates. The cliffs make any other potential route highly dangerous. On calm days in summer boats will take you to the beach from Ag Nikitas.

0.75km one way, 1.5km to the far end of beach.
100m ascent and descent.

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There is an summer bus to Ag Nikitas from Lefkada Town.

Tavernas and accommodation in Ag Nikitas. A seasonal kiosk at the beach.

Park on the road on the edge of Ag Nikitas. The village itself is car-free apart from residents. There is quite a bit of space for parking on the road but, as Ag Nikitas is popular, fills up fast in summer. You can also park towards Lefkada town and walk into Ag Nikitas along the coast.

Sign in Ag Nikitas at the start of this trail

Half way down the pedestrian road from the nearest parking to the beach is a sign to Mylos Beach pointing left (if facing the beach). Take this path as it goes up and slightly left up steep steps. Climb up to the top with good views back into the village.

The path runs over the headland, some parts paved, other parts rough.

The path runs up and over the headland through a forest giving some welcome shade. It then starts to drop down the other side. Here you get your first glimpse of Mylos Beach ahead. The path now starts to descend down very steep steps. Take great care.

At the bottom is the beach. You can walk along the wonderful sand to the headland at the far side. You can also walk on the dunes behind the beach – but please stick to the paths and don’t walk on the flowers, herbs and grass that bind the sand.

The old windmill up on the headland from which the beach gets its name.

Mylos Beach is a great place to sit, swim, picnic, smooch, whatever. A common question Lefkadians get asked is “what is the best beach”, with so many to choose from. A common answer is to avoid giving away that really nice quiet one. Mylos could be that beach.

Return back the way you came. Two other paths down are private. Don’t even think of climbing the cliffs at either end of the beach. On calm days in summer it is possible to get a boat back to Ag Nikitas. Note that the summer daily wind pattern is for a north westerly blow mid-late afternoon (it is why sailing and windsurfing is so good here). Be prepared to walk back.

Dessimi to Poros cape loop

This walk runs right around the glorious Poros cape in the south east corner of Lefkada. The trail starts either from Poros village itself or from Kamari beach on the east side of the cape near Dessimi (both on exactly the same loop path). You can also walk Dessimi to Poros or vice-versa for a one-way route. This description starts from Kamari beach. Walk in the cool of the morning then enjoy the afternoon on the beach. Perfection.

Note – we get reports that the monopati up the slope back to Poros is very overgrown. So this route is only reliable if you continue to Dessimi. We will check the path and report back.

8.8km (13.2km if starting and ending in Dessimi)
500m ascent
Moderate.

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You ideally need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. There is an infrequent bus to Poros from Lefkada town and regular bus to Vlycho.

Start the walk in either Dessimi, Kamari beach 2.2km from Dessimi or Poros. Camping and tavernas in Dessimi and Poros.

You can drive to Kamari beach on a track running from Dessimi. Keep to the right all through Dessimi past campsite and car parks and drive along the coast for 2.2km. The track is mostly unpaved but an easy drive in a car if you go carefully. Alternatively park in Dessimi and walk along the track.

After 2km the track passes a bay and turns sharp left, runs down a slope, and then sharp right opening out to a beach (Kamari). Half way down the slope a monopati goes off right up a steep bank (sometimes hard to spot). This is the start of the trail. Best to park near the beach and walk back a short way to the start. You will end up on the beach at the end of the walk.

Monopati turns off right up a steep bank

Climb up the monopati as it twists and turns up the steep slope. This is a classic old monopati and would be an easy path zig zagging up the steep hillside. However this section is often in danger of being overgrown. If you can, take a pair of loppers and clip the worst as you walk. It is too good a path to lose to the undergrowth. Wear long trousers.

The monopati climbs 300m and then goes over the top of the hill by a large antenna. A track runs up the other side of the slope to the masts and beyond – take this track down to the left. The track slowly descends across the hill until you reach the edge of Poros village. Drop into the village to get a drink in one of the tavernas.

After visiting Poros return to the track as it goes out beyond the village. The track climbs up to a saddle and then starts descending again out towards the cape. Ignore a track off right and then three off left.

Wonderful views from the track around Poros cape

The track rounds the cape and starts heading back north again. All the way are wonderful views off to the sea and islands south and east of Lefkada. Gradually descend sweeping in and out of ravines passing down the slope.

The track descends twisting in and out of ravines

Eventually the track reaches sea level at the other end of Kamari beach you started from. Walk along the beach, have a swim in the crystal clear waters, contemplate the beauty of Lefkada.

Rejoin your car or walk the 2.2 km to Dessimi where there are beach tavernas.