Early Churches Walk

This trail combines visits to two historic locations important to Christians on Lefkada, with a visit to two amazing beaches. The walk starts and ends 2km to the west of Lefkada Town, and you can walk or take your car and park by the beach.

Christianity came to Lefkada very early, in AD 65 only 32 years after Jesus’s death. This trail follows the footsteps of the first Christians on Lefkada. It starts where they traditionally landed on the beach, and climbs to the first sanctuary, later monastery, high on the headland. The trail returns to the beach via a different path ending at a beach taverna.

The trail is short but climbs a fairly steep path up and a slightly less steep path back down. It is best to treat as a short hike rather than a walk.

5km easy
200m ascent.

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Just 2km outside Lefkada Town, either walk, take your car or a short taxi ride.

Lots of accommodation and tavernas in Lefkada Town. Tavernas too at the beaches at the start and end of the walk.

The trail starts on the Agios Ioannis beach on the western edge of Lefkada Town. Park anywhere on the side of the road. Start by walking west along to the end of the beach at a rocky headland.

Agios Ioannis beach and headland where this trail starts and ends.

Just up from the end of the beach is the small church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. This was the starting place of Christianity on Lefkada in 65 AD. According to tradition St Paul preached in a cave where the church is built.

Agios Ioannis Antzousi, founded in 65 AD, rebuilt later by the Franks.

It is known that Paul travelled through western Greece, spreading Christianity from Macedonia to the Ionian coast. He reached Nicopolis, the new Roman city, and spent the winter of 64-65 AD. This much is documented, and it is entirely possible he came to Lefkada. Indeed he travelled by ship which would have gone through the Lefkada canal. According to Lefkadian tradition, Paul came with his disciple Sosion, and later ordained him as the island’s first bishop.

A small church was built and dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and known today as the church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. Carved partly into the rock and shaded by olives, the chapel remains one of the island’s oldest sacred sites. Centuries later, the Angevin (Anjou) knights who ruled Lefkada restored it, giving it the name “Antzousi.” With its rough stone roof and quiet setting above the sea, it still feels like a place where the earliest Christians might have gathered in secrecy.

After viewing the church retrace your steps just past the Telegaphos Taverna. Continue along the beach for a short distance and take a small turning on the right, next to the beach blue flag and information sign.

Take this small road from the beach.

Keep to the small road as it wiggles through the beach houses for a few hundred metres. When you come to a greener area with olive trees take a track going right. It wiggles right then left and comes to a road. Straight over the road is a narrow path between walls.

Take the narrow path between walls.

Take the path to a second road. Turn left and walk below the cliffs to an olive grove on the right. Take the track running on the right of a metal fence straight up a slope. At the top a monopati goes left and up the steep slope.

Turn right onto the track going up into the olive grove.

The monopati climbs steeply in zig zags as it traces a route up the hill to the top. As you get higher you get great views back across the bay below. As you get to the top you join a track near a gate, go left towards the road and the entrance to the monastery. If the monastery is open, the trail runs through the grounds where you can visit the small zoo, the church, a gift shop and a museum, exiting on the north side. If the monastery is shut, go left along the road around to the north gate.

The entrance to the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni

From the first coastal church, Bishop Sosion and the early believers moved inland. Climbing the wooded hill above the first church, they found an ancient temple of Artemis. There they built a new church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, marking the birth of Christian Lefkada’s spiritual heart—the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni. The name, meaning “the Revealed Virgin,” recalls the miracle of an icon of the Virgin that was said to have appeared to the monks who rebuilt the church. Artemis, the ancient god of motherhood and children was replaced by Mary.

By the 4th century AD, the sanctuary had become a monastery, serving as both a place of worship and a refuge for the faithful. Through centuries of Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule it endured, rebuilt many times after earthquakes and fires, most recently after the great blaze of 1886.

The peaceful monastery gardens.

After you exit the north gate of the monastery, go right a short distance along the road and take the first track off left. This descends in a series of zig zags down the slope. They are not quite so steep as the way up, making your way a little easier.

As you near the bottom of the path a second smaller monopati goes off left. Take this through a last few turns to reach a road along some houses. Go left, take one last turn down, and reach the bottom of the hill. Go straight on across the first crossroads by the small church, walk another 150m and take the first left turn.

After the crossroads take the first turn left.

Keep going straight on along the road, ignoring minor turnings. After 400m you pass where you turned off to go up the hill, and then shortly after back to the beach.

The beach is wonderful with sand and rocks for swimming. To your left are a string of beach tavernas. To the right Agios Ioannis beach merges into Milos Beach with its old windmill towers. This a favoured location for kite-surfing, well worth watching their amazing acrobatics.

Kite-surfers on Milos Beach.

Eglouvi to Agios Donatos and the lentil fields loop

High above Eglouvi lie the wonderful and unique lentil fields that produce the famous Eglouvi lentils (now DOC protected). Next to the traditional threshing floors is the tiny church of Agios Donatas. Nearby are old stone volti shelters. This route follows the traditional monopati used by villagers over centuries to reach the lentil fields. You can return back the way you came or follow this trail as it explores the lentil fields before descending a gorge back down to Eglouvi.

The first part of the trail up to Agios Donatos is well shaded and possible on a hot day, albeit better evening or first thing. After that there is infrequent shade, but not much ascent. There is no water on the trail.

6.8km.
365m ascent.

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There is an infrequent bus to Eglouvi from Lefkada Town.

Tavernas and accommodation in nearby Karya. Tavernas in Eglouvi.

The trail starts in Eglouvi square where are several tavernas. Water from the tap by the plane tree. Go 50m back downhill to the road junction where a paved path climbs steeply to the left. The trail to Agios Donatos is signposted on the wall.

You are going up the M3 to Agios Donatos

You will mostly follow the blue paint blobs, except for a few key sections described below, so don’t follow them without consulting this text. The many coloured routes are each different distances in the Eglouvi mountain races held each year. The village runners have kept these trails open over the years and we are grateful to them. For full continuous guidance download and use the GPX file on your phone or GPS device.

At the forks go left, right, left. Follow the blue paint. Walk up the road towards a church and cemetery and go right up the monopati just before you reach them.

After a short climb behind the cemetery keep right up the steep concrete track. You join a road for a brief way (left then right) and continue up the monopati.

Follow this wonderful monopati as it climbs gently in the shade of trees tended by previous generations. A truly stunning path that used to be the main route between village and the high lentil fields.

After a while you cross the road again, left then right. After 200m the path opens out approaching the top where it forks. Fork right, this time following red not blue paint. The blue returns just after this fork.

Agios Donatos with rock shelters behind

Just after the fork you reach the Ag Donatos church and lentil threshing floors. Behind are rock shelters used in ancient times by the lentil workers. If you are here in the evening of the 6th August each year there will be a lentil festival in full swing with a church service, a thousand people queuing for lentil soup and sardines, and late night music and Greek dancing.

You can simply retrace your steps back down to Eglouvi, many do and it is a good short trail. But the lentil fields are worth visiting too with wonderful views and many wild flowers. The best are in spring and autumn, but even in high summer there are many rock flowers unique to this high plateau.

After looking around, take the track on the opposite side of the road behind the threshing floors following the blue paint marks. Keep left at the fork and climb the low hill.

To your right is an expanse of lentil fields running across and up Stavrotas mountain. If you are here in spring or late autumn this will be green and full of wild flowers and the yellow flowered lentils. In mid summer it will be brown, but still wild and beautiful. The lentils are an important crop with high quality bringing high prices. This preserves traditional life and keeps at bay the Faustian pact of tourist “development”. As a hiker you can appreciate without disrupting.

Firework of flowers from April to May

Ignore turnings into fields and keep straight on the track up the hill. The track ends just before the hill top and becomes a monopati.

End of the track and start of monopati.

The monopati climbs to the top of the hill running right along the low ridge giving little view vignettes in all directions. Look back down to Donatos threshing area and onwards to Mega Oros and Agios Ilias. The path drops off the ridge down to a track. Go first right then almost immediately right.

Join a track, going briefly right, then left.

The track runs through fields then over a low ridge whereafter are views north towards Paxos and sometimes Corfu. Descend the valley keeping on the main track. The track starts to ascend the valley side, steep and gravelly at first. After going over a low ridge you meet a track where you turn left.

Follow the track ignoring field turns and gradually ascend. At the top of a hill turn right and then fork left heading towards the golf-ball shaped radar base.

The track goes off right at the top of a hill.

When the track goes right a monopati goes left straight up the hill. Follow the monopati over a rocky hill and down to the road as it skirts a big quarry. The monopati becomes a track just before reaching the road.

Go left for a short way to the junction where the road goes right up to Profitas Ilias church on the mountaintop. If you have energy it is worth a detour. The trail takes the track going sharp right down across the quarry at the road junction. The blue markers go a different way, but indistinct red markers show your way now.

The track down over the quarry starts at the road junction.

Follow the track as it bridges huge gravel diggings keeping to the right where it forks. You are heading for the stream exit at the bottom right. You join a red yellow painted track as it comes in from the right. Keep down along the dry stream-bed. The blue paint markers re-join too from the left, and the multicolour trail descends towards Eglouvi.

As the stream gorge gets deeper keep to the right side and follow the very clear good path down the gorge. Eglouvi appears below and the Micky Mouse ears of the old NATO microwave relay base are up to your right.

Join the road at the bottom at a hairpin bend. Head down left to the next hairpin where you go straight on along a track towards houses. A paved path goes sharp left down between houses and descends steeply to where you started.

I can strongly recommend the tavernas, you may see Trish and me sitting there post-hike. If you want to try the lentils they sell them, both in packets for you to take home or as various dishes to taste here. They sell out quickly after the late-July harvest, although they save some for the kitchen for you to taste. Beware fakes if you buy them elsewhere.

Ag Nikitas to Mylos Beach

A short trail over the headland between Ag Nikitias and Mylos Beach. Mylos is one of the best beaches on the island. Ag Nikitas, too, is a pretty seaside village on the north west coast of Lefkada; with a nice beach and tavernas. A pleasant place to spend time. However 30 minutes walk takes you to a much larger and quieter beach. On the headland is an old windmill – hence Mylos Beach (the English word “mill” comes from the Greek word “Mylos”). The beach is almost all wonderful sand.

The walk is short, but up and down steep steps. So best to do it in the morning or evening in summer, or anytime the rest of the year. There are no tavernas or anything else at the beach, although a caravan serves drinks in peak season. So best to take what you need – and, of course, bring back all your rubbish.

Note that this is the only public-access trail to Mylos Beach. Two other tracks down to the beach are private and blocked with locked gates. The cliffs make any other potential route highly dangerous. On calm days in summer boats will take you to the beach from Ag Nikitas.

0.75km one way, 1.5km to the far end of beach.
100m ascent and descent.

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There is an summer bus to Ag Nikitas from Lefkada Town.

Tavernas and accommodation in Ag Nikitas. A seasonal kiosk at the beach.

Park on the road on the edge of Ag Nikitas. The village itself is car-free apart from residents. There is quite a bit of space for parking on the road but, as Ag Nikitas is popular, fills up fast in summer. You can also park towards Lefkada town and walk into Ag Nikitas along the coast.

Sign in Ag Nikitas at the start of this trail

Half way down the pedestrian road from the nearest parking to the beach is a sign to Mylos Beach pointing left (if facing the beach). Take this path as it goes up and slightly left up steep steps. Climb up to the top with good views back into the village.

The path runs over the headland, some parts paved, other parts rough.

The path runs up and over the headland through a forest giving some welcome shade. It then starts to drop down the other side. Here you get your first glimpse of Mylos Beach ahead. The path now starts to descend down very steep steps. Take great care.

View down to Mylos Beach

At the bottom is the beach. You can walk along the wonderful sand to the headland at the far side. You can also walk on the dunes behind the beach – but please stick to the paths and don’t walk on the flowers, herbs and grass that bind the sand.

The old windmill up on the headland from which the beach gets its name.

Mylos Beach is a great place to sit, swim, picnic, smooch, whatever. A common question Lefkadians get asked is “what is the best beach”, with so many to choose from. A common answer is to avoid giving away that really nice quiet one. Mylos could be that beach.

Return back the way you came. Two other paths down are private. Don’t even think of climbing the cliffs at either end of the beach. On calm days in summer it is possible to get a boat back to Ag Nikitas. Note that the summer daily wind pattern is for a north westerly blow mid-late afternoon (it is why sailing and windsurfing is so good here). Be prepared to walk back.

Syvros to an ancient temple and Agios Ioannis Monastery

Gentle walk through the trees below Syvros to an ancient temple that has been converted into a Christian monastery. A perfect evening walk – or take a picnic and spend the whole day. You can still see stones and columns of the ancient Doric temple of >Dimitra, the goddess of agriculture and fertility. It was converted to a monastery in about 1650. It is still believed to be a good place for a couple wanting a child to visit and pray. Nice too, even if not currently desiring such a happy event. The lush valley is an ideal spot for a temple to agriculture and fertility.

The path is marked to “Agios Ioannis” along much of the route. The last part is a little indistinct and we recommend downloading the GPX file of the route and following it on your phone or GPS device.

4.4km one way – 8.8km both ways.
200m ascent one way – 320m both ways.

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There is an infrequent bus to Syvros from Lefkada Town.

Tavernas and accommodation in Syvros.

Start from the pretty town square in the middle of Syvros. There are two or three tavernas to take refreshment. With your back to the square facing the old schoolhouse go left down the road. Immediately after the first corner take the track/narrow road going left, followed immediately by a second left turn.

Follow the track generally straight ahead until forking left on a path. There are red streamers tied to branches along some of the route, but it is best to follow these turns on a map or GPS. The path goes through trees and olive groves and climbs up to meet a road. Go right and then take the first track off right again (signposted “Springs Pathway”. Drop down a short slope and then turn left towards the Kanali spring. You pass the path marker to “Agios Ioannis”.

Follow the path marker to Agios Ionnis

Keep half-right past the spring and take the track as it starts to descend down the side of the valley through the trees.

The track descends for 2.5km along the side of the valley

After 2.5km you reach a narrow road – turn right and then immediately right along another track. The track goes around a low hill through olive groves. After about 500m a path goes off right straight up the hill (following with a map or GPS phone really helps here). Take the path as it climbs between trees and bushes to the top of the hill.

A path turns off the track straight up the hill.

At the top of the hill is a clearing with the monastery grounds and a small parking area. Take a wander around the site. You will see the round columns of the ancient temple, and also see stones in the wall of the church that were once part of the old temple. It is also a good place to sit and picnic. The tradition is that couples praying inside the church may hear footsteps outside indicating that a child is due.

Stones of the ancient temple in the foundation of the church

Retrace your steps back to Syvros, or arrange for a taxi or friend to pick you up. An alternative is to walk down the quiet road to Kondarena and the main Vasiliki-Nidri road where there are buses.

A huge thanks to the Antelikos Sivros Cultural Club, especially Vasilis Deftereos who inspired this trail. They marked this trail and regularly take groups on it giving a fascinating description of the temple, wildlife and fauna. Take a look in their small museum too if you get the chance (in the old schoolhouse at the start of this trail). You can also learn Greek dancing at their weekly evening session.

Eglouvi to Karya monopati traverse

The old monopati route running from Eglouvi to Karya across a low pass below Profitas Ilias. Paired up with Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi this makes a great loop trail from either Eglouvi or Karya. Go out on one and back on the other – a great hike – one of Lefkada’s best.

4.4km. 10.7km if paired with route back over Profitas Ilias.
200m ascent. 760m ascent for the full loop, 560m with the shortcut.
Moderate.

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There is an infrequent bus to Eglouvi and more frequent to Karya from Lefkada Town.

Tavernas and accommodation in Karya. Tavernas in Eglouvi.

The trail starts from the centre of Eglouvi. Here are three tavernas and a great small square shaded by a plane tree. A great place to seat and eat or drink, but today we are going walking. Head off down the road towards Karya. The road goes around a few bends and after almost 1km a track goes off left. This is the well-marked start of the monopati.

Take the track off left from the road down to Karya from Eglouvi

After 20m a second sign shows the monopati itself goes off left climbing through the trees. The monopati goes parallel to the track before starting to climb up the hillside. The monopati is well marked with yellow and red paint marks.

The monopati climbs up the hillside marked with yellow and red paint

Climb right up and over the low pass. On the far side there are a few easy rock scrambles and then a great traverse across the steep hillside. You get fantastic views across to Skaros, Nidri and down to the Inland Sea. A truly wonderful monopati.

The monopati traverses across the hillside towards Karya

After a couple of kilometers you reach a telephone mast. Follow the path around the mast and it becomes a quiet tarmac road. Almost immediately a red and yellow painted arrow on the road shows a track going off steeply down into the trees. Head down that track to reach Karya. If you are planning to walk back on Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi you can take a short-cut by instead continuing along the quiet road. Follow the road until you meet the trail heading up from Karya about 50m past a fork in the road (go left). The shortcut saves 200m of climbing.

The yellow and red marker shows the path heading down to Karya.

The path down to Karya heads down through the wonderful pine forest above Karya. It is a little steep in places but reasonably easy down through the trees. The yellow and red markers show the way. Keep going until you reach the back roads in Karya.

Inventive yellow and red paint markers on the trail.

When on the road head down left and then immediately right. A short track heads off immediately left behind a house.

A track heads off immediately left.

At the bottom the short track rejoins a road. Take the road turning first left, first right, first left, and first right again. Then straight down, round a bend left, and down to the main square in Karya. If you miss those turns just head down and you will get to the square.

The main square is delightful with great tavernas and bars clustered around a square with plane trees providing shade. This is a popular place to come, in the evening especially.

The Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi trail starts at the spring in the north west corner of the square. Head back here to Eglouvi, this time climbing to the top of Profitas Ilias. You can also walk back up the road, but not nearly as interesting.

Klousouria Gorge loop from Agios Ilias

Follow an old monopati down into the Klousouria Gorge below Agios Ilias. Superb old monopati that navigates down past rock pinacles into this impressive gorge. Explore the gorge upstream for a while before following the monopati up the other side and looping back through the forests above Syvros. Runs back up to Ag Ilias by a different route.

I think this gorge is in some ways more impressive and has better views than the Mellisa Gorge, which appears in more tourist guides to Lefkada. However the steep drops are not fenced off so not as safe with young children.

4.8km
280m ascent
Moderate.

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You ideally need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. There is an infrequent bus to Syros from Lefkada town from where you walk up to Agios Ilias

Taverna and limited accomodation in Agios Ilias. More of both in Syvos.

Start off from the taverna in Agios Ilias. Plenty of places to park the car without blocking the road or side tracks. Head up the road following the sign to Eglouvi and Karya.

The taverna in Agios Ilias

After a short distance pass a church and monument on the left, go round a bend, and meet a road junction where the road divides into the one-way system to navigate the narrow roads through the village. Take the turning left going against the flow of cars (and so this time NOT the road signposted to Eglouvi and Karya).

Turn left to walk the wrong way up the one-way road for cars

Keep going following the road a few hundred metres up a steep slope to a flatter part just after a bend right. After 40m there is a concrete track off left next to a phone/power wood post.

Turn left at the track by the wooden pole

Keep walking down the track ignoring turnings to a gate across the track with a sign “Leader II”. At this point a monopati starts down the left side of the fence leading from the gate. Take this monopati. At first the monopati keeps close to the fence as it passes around the compound. The fence has barbed wire and an electric wire running along the top (don’t touch it!!). Don’t worry as you will soon leave this unpleasantness behind. There may be a metal “gate” to untie, open and leave as found.

As the monopati leaves the fence it starts to drop steeper into the gorge ahead. Very soon fantastic views open up to the left with some wonderful rock pinnacles framing the gorge below. Descend steeper dropping slightly right down along the ledges taken by the monopati where you eventually reach the bottom with a bridge across the stream.

Looking up the gorge from near the bridge

You will eventually take the monopati across the bridge that goes slightly right up the other side of the gorge, but before you go that way explore the gorge upstream. The stream will be dry in summer making this easy – but take care if water is flowing. Don’t do this if heavy rains or thunderstorms are likely as the gorge fills quickly. Go up as far as you wish (and water permitting) – the sides getting more precipitous the further you go. After seeing enough head back to the bridge. If you only came for the gorge then go back up the way you came down – but if up for the full loop head up to the right from the bridge.

Climb up through the trees on a widening monopati until you reach the top and meet a track. Go left around the vineyards, past an olive grove and under a tall fig tree. Starts to descend for 1km working around the low hill to your left. You get some great views over the trees to Syvros and the Vasiliki valley. Ignore the turn off right sharp and go straight on heading back to Agios Ilias village.

Great views south over Vasiliki valley

Head along the track across the slope for another 1km until you meet a ford. The track crosses the ford and heads off right. The ford is over the lower part of the gorge you crossed higher up, at the bridge. It is possible to go back up the gorge along the stream bed (if it is dry). There are a few rock climbs up waterfalls so you need to be happy using your hands and feet. Far easier is to continue along the track.

Go past a church on the left of the track

After a short distance you pass a church on the left. Keep going to meet another track. Turn left straight up the steep concrete track. At the top the track joins the road just below Agios Ilias. Turn left and go uphill until you reach the taverna where you parked your car. One of the big hairpins can be cut across by an initially concrete track.

Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi

This walk runs between the mountain villages of Karya and Eglouvi. It climbs over Profitis Ilias which is a church set on a mountain top with one of the best views in Lefkada. Warning – there are hundreds of churches on peaks in Greece called Profitis Ilias. This is the 1,009 metre peak just SSW of Karya. The trail then descends down the other side to the village of Eglouvi. The trail is along monopati and unsurfaced tracks for almost all of the route.

6.3km
560m ascent
Moderate.

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Accommodation and tavernas in Karya. Tavernas and limited Aaccommodation in Eglouvi

Infrequent buses to Karya and Eglouvi from Lefkada Town. However you really need to use a taxi or have a friend/partner that drives.

Day 3 of the 80km Lefkada Trail.
Day [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]

The trail is the third part of the Lefkada Trail. It is a relatively easy short day on the Lefkada Trail – but then tomorrow, day four, is one of the hardest. You can walk it as a stand alone and walk back a different route to Karya. It is a steep climb up Profitis Ilias mountain and a steep rocky descent to Eglouvi.

Start from the town square in Karya, with all the nice tavernas and the shade of the plane trees.

Start of trail up hill between spring and bakery

This trail is marked as M4 from Karya – with red markers and arrow signs for most of the way. Go up the steep path/ narrow lane in the north west of the square, by the drinking well. There is a good baker as the path starts where you can get cheese pies for the top.

Follow M4 red arrows

Follow up through the steeply climbing streets going straight up – but bear a little left at first and then a little right. The path narrows and reaches a turning right up stairs. The M4 red arrows show you the way.

Turn right up stairs

At top of stairs you reach a road. Turn right and go a short distance to a monopati heading up the hill left.

The first section of monopati leaving the road.

The monopati zig zags up the hill passing through ruined stone buildings and past a small church. The path then goes left to meet a road on a sharp bend. Go up the road until a T junction where you turn right. Very soon a monopati starts up the hill on your left.

Second monopati leaving the final bit of road out of Karya

Follow the really nice monopati up the mountain. It passes a wonderful natural amphitheatre full of olive trees. Keep going up through some rocky outcrops (but with a good path to keep you safe). The path is well marked by red-yellow paint marks.

As you come to the top of the hill another path joins from the right. The markers now become red-yellow-blue. At the top go left following the markers (there is a less distinct path continuing straight on down to Eglouvi direct).

When you reach the top of the ridge the vista west will open up. Below you is a quarry and over beyond that to the left is the old American communications base. Follow the red-yellow-blue markers up along the ridge until you reach a road heading up the mountain. Go left up the road.

Old American communications base above Eglouvi

Climb the twisting road up towards the top of Profitis Ilias. The odd car ventures up here, but it is being undermined by the quarry, and difficult to pass. As a walker you won’t have any problem. Stick to the road all the way to the top.

Reach the mountain top and the very pretty church of Profitis Ilias with its amazing views in all directions. Many describe this spot as being close to heaven. You can see all of the Inland Sea from here – on a clear day to the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth.

Church of Profitis Ilias looking back over the last half of this trail

Note that this peak is a drone-free zone. And you can see why many would fly drones here if permitted.

Looking down to Eglouvi and your destination for today

Head back down the road you came up. After about 100m there is a large red and yellow arrow indicating a footpath off left. Descend that path down towards the quarry. The path skirts a small field and then almost gets back to the road. Instead go straight down the slope left. The path is clearly marked with red and yellow paint markers.

Cross the quarry keeping to the path. At the bottom you meet another path coming from the right. You head down the dry streambed to the left. Again, follow the painted markers.

The junction of the A3 (coming from Profitis Ilias) and M4 (going to Karya)

The path becomes steep and rocky so take care. As it steepens the path takes the right hand side of the stream or gorge.

Looking back up the steep path

The path eventually meets a road on a hairpin bend. Go down left towards Eglouvi. After a short way paint markers show a path leaving the road and running down into the village. Take this path following back down the A3 trail. If you miss the path the road goes to the village too.

The start of the A3 trail in Eglouvi – or end of this trail for today.

Eglouvi village has three or four tavernas in the main square up a little on the right. Sit in the shade of a wonderful plane tree and relax. There is some accommodation in the village and an infrequent bus to Lefkada Town. Day four of the Lefkada Trail will take you up over Lefkada’s highest mountain and down to the south of the island.

Mount Elati Five Peak Loop

Stunning walk across the roof of Lefkada. A trail with the best views of the north, east and south of Lefkada with the surrounding seas, islands and mainland. Takes in five peaks on the high plain of the eastern end of Mount Elati – the highest part of Lefkada. And all for a mere 166m of climbing. The easy way to be a mountaineer.

If you want a full-on longer hike then walk up the A4 trail from Eglouvi, go around this trail, and then go back down the A5 to Eglouvi. This makes probably the best mountain hike on Lefkada. In total 600m of ascent and 11.5km long. Or for an uber-hike try the Lefkada all-thousand-metre-peaks challenge.

You won’t have to climb but do take suitable clothes, boots or walking shoes and carry plenty of water. The weather up here is usually more extreme than down below except being cooler in summer. The sun is stronger though.

4.7km
166m ascent
Easy (but very rocky ground in parts).

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You need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. You can walk up from Eglouvi if you are fit.

Links to trails up and down to Eglouvi, or beyond to climb Stavrotas too.

The trail starts from the high road by the antenna at the top of Mnimati at 1,130m. Drive up from either Eglouvi, Karia, Chorta, or Sivros. Take the turning off the high road crossing from Eglouvi to Sivros leading up to the antenna station at the top. Park just before you get to the antenna gates – near to a concrete blockhouse up on the right of the road. Do not block the road or tracks leading off.

Track at the start of the trail leads north-east from the road just below the radio antenna

Take the track heading north-east. There is sometimes a metal fence that you need to locate and untie the wire or rope that holds the track gate closed. Take care and don’t damage the fence (it keeps the cows in). Make sure you re-tie as you found it.

Head along the track with views all the way up to Lefkada town in the distance. After about 300m the track turns sharp left and a marked path goes right. The path is marked with big red and yellow paint marks on the rocks – and is the A4 trail coming up from Eglouvi. Follow that path rightwards all the way to Katharia Rachi – the first peak. The path descends at first to a low pass before climbing up gently to Katharia Rachi after 1.5km. You can’t miss the red and yellow paint marks all the way.

Distinctive read and yellow paint blobs mark much of the trail.

Katharia Rachi is marked with a sign in a small cairn. Also the slope suddenly drops steeply down in front of you and to both sides. You are now at the top of the most glorious view in all of Lefkada. Stand where Odysseus did. Look north towards Lefkada and Preveza beyond – on a clear day up to Paxos and Corfu. To the east is Nidri, out across the Inland Sea with Meganisi, Kalamos, and the mainland. To the south is Ithaca and Kefalonia beyond. To the south-east on a clear day is the start of the Gulf of Corinth and Patras. Stunning. Sit here and enjoy.

Stunning panorama view from Katharia Rachi

When you have finished looking take the path heading sharp-right almost back the way you came. The same red and yellow paint marks descend down and right down to high pass below you. After about 200m the marked path turns back left and descends more gently to the pass. The path then turns right and goes over a low hill until it reaches a T junction with an unsurfaced track. The paint marks go off right, and you will eventually go that way too, but first turn left and follow the track downwards.

Your destination ahead on Alevrata peak

The track descends to another pass where it ends and a path ascends a peak in front of you. Take that path to the top. At the top you stand on Alevrata with a similar amazing view as you had on top of Katharia Rachi except oriented more to the south. You can now see over the whole south of the island with Ithaca and Kefalonia beyond. Again, sit for a while and enjoy.

When ready retrace your steps down the path back down to the first pass and then back up the track you came down. Follow the track all the way until you pick up the red and yellow paint marks. Follow the track as it winds across the high plateau. There may be wire fences to cross but most have tied “gates” where crossing the track. Leave them as you found them as they stop the cows roaming.

Track winds across the high plateau

The track eventually climbs back up to the road near the radio antenna at the top of Mnimati. At this point the paint-marked trail follows the A5 down to Eglouvi. Instead follow the road right towards the antennas and your parked car.

Follow the road back right towards the antenna

This trail can be easily linked into the trails A4 and A5 up and down from Eglouvi. You can also head along the short road to the start of the trail up Stavrotas – and go for a sixth peak.

Katouna Valley and Forest Loop

Beautiful walk from Katouna village climbing up along a stream, climbing over a hill for wonderful views, and back down to Katouna. Best in spring when there is water in the streams and all the flowers are out – but great all year round. There is a fair bit of shade and so works on a hot summer day if you start early. There are several alternative loops around Katouna but this one minimises time spent on surfaced roads.

7.2km
335m ascent
Moderate

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Tavernas and holiday lets in Katouna.

One of several possible circular paths from and around Katouna. Use a good map and follow almost any of the tracks and quiet roads on the hills around Katouna. This route avoids most of the surfaced roads whilst visiting many of the pretty parts.

Infrequent bus to Katouna from Lefkada town.

Starts from the the village of Katouna up on the hill above the Lefkada town to Nidri road. Park in or near the small town square. There are good tavernas in and around the square for provisions for your walk or refreshment afterwards. There is a spring part way round the route but best to carry water in case it is dry.

Taverna in Katouna village square – start (and end) of the trail

Walk up the road on the right hand side of the taverna and turn almost immediately first right on a track between the houses. Go about 100m along this track until a monopati forks off right dropping down the hill. Follow the monopati down.

The monopati forks off right

Descend the monopati until it reaches a narrow road. Turn right and go down the road for about 200m until a grass track turns off sharp left between the trees. Be careful as there is another very short track heading off left into an olive grove just before the track you want.

Grassy track turns sharp left off the road.

The track meanders down to the bottom of the valley through trees, across grass meadows and olive groves. The track is slightly indistinct in parts but easy to follow if you watch out or follow a GPS map. You reach a well-laid gravel track running along the bottom of a valley. From this point you go through three path junctions as you go up the valley. If you turn away from going up the valley before passing those three junctions you should check the map.

Start by turning left up the valley. Almost immediately the track hairpins to the right and another track goes leftwards (up the valley). Follow that left-hand track continuing up the valley. After a short distance the track fords over the stream and gradually turns to the left. At that point a grassy track forks off right continuing to follow the stream on its left-hand bank.

A grassy track forks off right just after fording the stream.

Follow the grassy track up the left bank of the stream. It becomes more distinct as it goes. As it hairpins right across the stream another track turns off left. Take the track, keeping on up the stream. You have now now successfully navigated the three junctions.

The track soon turns into a grassy path and then turns left to start climbing up out of the valley. The path climbs up and to the left up a steep slope – which in winter and spring can be a little muddy underfoot as a side-stream flows along it for part of the way. Eventually you reach a track. Turn right and follow up the track.

The track is rather wonderful as it runs through mature forest climbing up the hill. You start to get views back to Katouna and the east coast of Lefkada. After about 1.5km you join a bigger track as it hairpins. Keep on left up the hill. After another 0.5km you join a quiet surface road. Go left up the hill.

Follow the road now for about 1.5km as it climbs up to a higher valley and then up that valley to a pass. About half way there is a welcome spring on the right side of the road. The spring has a tap with drinking water – but best not to drink direct from the stream. There is also a lovely old bridge from before the monopati was turned into a road. After resting here continue up the road to the pass.

Roadside spring with the old monopati stone bridge

At the top of the pass four surfaced roads and two unsurfaced tracks meet. You want the unsurfaced track going slightly down almost directly straight-on from the surfaced road you just came up. It is the right-most of the two unsurfaced tracks and runs immediately to the left of the small farm and goat huts. Consult the map if unsure. You are at the highest point of the trail. You could get driven here by taxi and just walk down to Katouna – making this an easy walk for a hot day.

The unsurfaced track on the left side of the small farm.

After a short distance down the track keep left at the fork. Follow the track as it traverses around the steep hillside. Enjoy wonderful views across to Skaros mountain with its pine and oak forests. Also down to the Inland Sea on the east coast of Lefkada. This part of the track makes all that climb up worthwhile. It ends at a quiet surface road. Turn right down the road.

Views of Skaros and the Inland Sea

The road is almost as good as the track as it winds 2km down along the ridge and hills back down to Katouna. Turn right at the fork, then keep straight on at the next junction – then turn left at the last T junction heading into Katouna village. When you get into the houses of the village bear right between the houses to reach the square where you started. Enjoy one of the two or three tavernas in and around the square.

Eglouvi to Profitis Ilias (A3)

A justly popular walk from the mountain village of Eglouvi up to a pretty church on the top of a steep peaked mountain. You can see the church from Eglouvi up on the top of the cliff high above. The trail goes around the cliff to the left but it is still steep and rocky. However the views at the top are just heavenly. Take your camera as the summit is so photogenic. Don’t take a drone as the top is a drone-free zone.

If you want to climb Profitis Ilias from Elgouvi a good alternative to this trail is to loop around via Karya. Take the Eglouvi to Karya monopati route (optionally using the suggested shortcut) and come back on the Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi. This combination takes you around, up, and back down Profitis Ilias without retracing your path. It is 9km and 500m total ascent if you take the suggested shortcut, 200m more if you go all the way down to Karya. This combined trail is one of the best in Lefkada.

2.2km
300m ascent
Moderately Difficult

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Infrequent bus to Eglouvi from Lefkada and Karya

Tavernas and accommodation in Eglouvi

Links to a trail back down to Karya

Start in Eglouvi in the main square with the tavernas. If you haven’t got water fill up now – there will be no more drinking water until you get back down. I suggest at least a litre a person minimum. There is a tap next to the plane tree or buy from the tavernas.

Walk a little downhill from the tavernas back towards Karya. On your left is a turning with a yellow A3 sign. Take this turning and follow the next yellow A3 signs left, right and right again through the footways of Eglouvi village. The last footway takes you back onto a road heading rightwards up the hill.

The start of the A3 trail in Eglouvi

At the top of the road (just as it turns a hairpin left) another yellow A3 sign points up a monopati heading up a steep valley. Follow up that monopati as it climbs right up to the top on the left side of the steep valley (almost a gorge).

The rail leaves the road just above Eglouvi heading up the steep valley / gorge

The going is pretty steep so take care. You follow yellow and red painted marks on the rocks all the way up.

Climb up the steep path

As you come to the top you start to enter a large quarry area. Keep going up the dry stream bed until you get to a trail junction with the A3 marked going off right. Go right and head over the quarry heading towards the mountain up on the right (your destination). If you did go straight on you would get to Karya.

The junction of the A3 (going to Profitis Ilias) and M4 (going to Karya)

Head up the mountain ahead until you meet a short track heading from a road on your left. It is possible to take that road up to the top, but the A3 trail keeps right along the short track passing a small field. The track then turns back into a monopati climbing further up the mountain. Finally it reaches that road again further up. Walk a short way up the road to the church of Profitis Ilias at the top of the mountain.

The views from Profitas Ilias are equal to the best anywhere

Many describe this spot as being close to heaven. You can see all of the Inland Sea from here – on a clear day to the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth. Gaze back down the cliff to Eglouvi where you started this climb.

Retrace your steps back down to Eglouvi. Alternatively head down to Karya using the Karya to Profitis Ilias (M4) in reverse (note you keep on down the road up to the church until the M4 goes off right – you are joining the M4 higher up than you met it on the way up).

Note that there is a narrow road going all the way to the top of Profitis Ilias. But the road is starting to collapse into the quarry so much safer and nicer to walk.

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