Lefkada Trails- North

Early Churches Walk

This trail combines visits to two historic locations important to Christians on Lefkada, with a visit to two amazing beaches. The walk starts and ends 2km to the west of Lefkada Town, and you can walk or take your car and park by the beach.

Christianity came to Lefkada very early, in AD 65 only 32 years after Jesus’s death. This trail follows the footsteps of the first Christians on Lefkada. It starts where they traditionally landed on the beach, and climbs to the first sanctuary, later monastery, high on the headland. The trail returns to the beach via a different path ending at a beach taverna.

The trail is short but climbs a fairly steep path up and a slightly less steep path back down. It is best to treat as a short hike rather than a walk.

5km easy
200m ascent.

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Just 2km outside Lefkada Town, either walk, take your car or a short taxi ride.

Lots of accommodation and tavernas in Lefkada Town. Tavernas too at the beaches at the start and end of the walk.

The trail starts on the Agios Ioannis beach on the western edge of Lefkada Town. Park anywhere on the side of the road. Start by walking west along to the end of the beach at a rocky headland.

A scenic view of a beach on Lefkada with mountains in the background and a clear blue sky. — Agios Ioannis beach and headland where this trail starts and ends.

Just up from the end of the beach is the small church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. This was the starting place of Christianity on Lefkada in 65 AD. According to tradition St Paul preached in a cave where the church is built.

A small white church with a bell tower surrounded by trees, located on a stone path. The building has a traditional Mediterranean architectural style. — Agios Ioannis Antzousi, founded in 65 AD, rebuilt later by the Franks.

It is known that Paul travelled through western Greece, spreading Christianity from Macedonia to the Ionian coast. He reached Nicopolis, the new Roman city, and spent the winter of 64-65 AD. This much is documented, and it is entirely possible he came to Lefkada. Indeed he travelled by ship which would have gone through the Lefkada canal. According to Lefkadian tradition, Paul came with his disciple Sosion, and later ordained him as the island’s first bishop.

A small church was built and dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and known today as the church of Agios Ioannis Antzousi. Carved partly into the rock and shaded by olives, the chapel remains one of the island’s oldest sacred sites. Centuries later, the Angevin (Anjou) knights who ruled Lefkada restored it, giving it the name “Antzousi.” With its rough stone roof and quiet setting above the sea, it still feels like a place where the earliest Christians might have gathered in secrecy.

After viewing the church retrace your steps just past the Telegaphos Taverna. Continue along the beach for a short distance and take a small turning on the right, next to the beach blue flag and information sign.

A narrow road leading to a beachside taverna, surrounded by trees and buildings, with a clear blue sky overhead. — Take this small road from the beach.

Keep to the small road as it wiggles through the beach houses for a few hundred metres. When you come to a greener area with olive trees take a track going right. It wiggles right then left and comes to a road. Straight over the road is a narrow path between walls.

A narrow path flanked by walls leading to a green gate, with scenic hills in the background and blue skies. — Take the narrow path between walls.

Take the path to a second road. Turn left and walk below the cliffs to an olive grove on the right. Take the track running on the right of a metal fence straight up a slope. At the top a monopati goes left and up the steep slope.

A winding gravel path surrounded by olive trees and greenery on a sunny day, leading towards a hilly landscape. — Turn right onto the track going up into the olive grove.

The monopati climbs steeply in zig zags as it traces a route up the hill to the top. As you get higher you get great views back across the bay below. As you get to the top you join a track near a gate, go left towards the road and the entrance to the monastery. If the monastery is open, the trail runs through the grounds where you can visit the small zoo, the church, a gift shop and a museum, exiting on the north side. If the monastery is shut, go left along the road around to the north gate.

A view of a traditional white building with a tiled roof, surrounded by greenery and pottery, under a clear blue sky. — The entrance to the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni

From the first coastal church, Bishop Sosion and the early believers moved inland. Climbing the wooded hill above the first church, they found an ancient temple of Artemis. There they built a new church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, marking the birth of Christian Lefkada’s spiritual heart—the Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni. The name, meaning “the Revealed Virgin,” recalls the miracle of an icon of the Virgin that was said to have appeared to the monks who rebuilt the church. Artemis, the ancient god of motherhood and children was replaced by Mary.

By the 4th century AD, the sanctuary had become a monastery, serving as both a place of worship and a refuge for the faithful. Through centuries of Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule it endured, rebuilt many times after earthquakes and fires, most recently after the great blaze of 1886.

A view of a monastery courtyard in Lefkada, featuring white buildings with terracotta roofs, vibrant pink bougainvillea flowers, and green plants. A person walks through the courtyard under a clear blue sky. — The peaceful monastery gardens.

After you exit the north gate of the monastery, go right a short distance along the road and take the first track off left. This descends in a series of zig zags down the slope. They are not quite so steep as the way up, making your way a little easier.

As you near the bottom of the path a second smaller monopati goes off left. Take this through a last few turns to reach a road along some houses. Go left, take one last turn down, and reach the bottom of the hill. Go straight on across the first crossroads by the small church, walk another 150m and take the first left turn.

A rural intersection in Lefkada, Greece, featuring a dirt road leading to a residential building surrounded by trees and vegetation under a clear blue sky. — After the crossroads take the first turn left.

Keep going straight on along the road, ignoring minor turnings. After 400m you pass where you turned off to go up the hill, and then shortly after back to the beach.

The beach is wonderful with sand and rocks for swimming. To your left are a string of beach tavernas. To the right Agios Ioannis beach merges into Milos Beach with its old windmill towers. This a favoured location for kite-surfing, well worth watching their amazing acrobatics.

A view of a beach with several colorful kites flying in the sky, where kite surfers are riding the waves. — Kite-surfers on Milos Beach.

Lefkada Trail day 1 Lefkada Town to Nikiana via the ancient city and Katouna

This walk runs from Lefkada Town main square to the small harbour of Nikiana. The route passes the ruins of the ancient capital city of Lefkada, Leucas or Nirikos, where you can see sections of the huge city walls and the ancient theatre. It takes in the pretty mountain village of Katouna about half way (there are tavernas there and both ends). The trail is inland in the hills above the coast for most of its route. This way you are walking along unsurfaced tracks for much of the route and completely away from the busy coastal highway. You also get some fantastic views.

14.5km
480m ascent
Moderate.

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Accommodation and tavernas in both Lefkada Town, Katouna and Nikiana.

Frequent bus runs between Nikiana (from Nidri) and Lefkada Town.

Day 1 of the 80km Lefkada Trail.
Days [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]

The trail is the first part of the Lefkada Trail. Also great as a one-way hike getting a bus or taxi back to Lefkada Town. It is easy walking underfoot and there is a fair amount of shade with taverna just over half way. It makes a good hot-day walk if you start early. In winter it is good for low-cloud days.

The trail starts from Lefkada main square. Go through the small streets towards the marina. At the main roundabout take the turn past the schools and then out towards the Nidri road. When you pass Lidl go right a short way to a small road going left beside a car wash. You leave leave urban for olive groves and hills.

After about 200m take a track off left. Keep right as this climbs up the hill.

You are walking past the site of the ancient city of Leucas or Nirikos founded in 700BC, much of it is now stones in the trees. However the walls and theatre are exposed and you can imagine some of the rest. The wall starts being visible as you get to the top of the hill but gets better defined as you go along. It is distinguishable from field walls by the huge stones and defensive positioning on the slope. It comes in from your left and then runs along the right side for about 500m.

Part way along this section is a track going down left with painted arrows coming up. You have the option to take a short diversion: go down about 100m and then take the fork off right – after another 200m you come to the ancient theatre. If the gate is closed don’t go in, but often it is not. This theatre is the first one discovered in the Ionian Islands and demonstrates the prominence of Lefkada in ancient times. Retrace back up to the main track where you left it. The sign says take no pictures – so we borrowed an official one.

The ancient theatre of Lefkada with a very small amount of planned reconstruction.

Just after the track becomes concrete, and climbs steeply, is the best part of the wall. It cross from the right to the left, with massive blocks tightly jointed together. This is just below what was the ancient acropolis for the city, up in the trees. The wall fully surrounds a square kilometre of land from here down to the water below.

After 1km past the old city keep straight on to join another road going left. The road climbs the hill with hairpin bends. It passes the very pretty Ag. Nikolaos church and then traverses along the fir-clad hills of northern Lefkada.

Passing a very pretty church of Ag. Nikolaos

The road keeps changing between unsurfaced and concrete (usually on the steep bits). After 1.5km there is a road going left by a brown sign in Greek pointing back the way you came. Take the road left descending the hill.

Brown sign pointing back the way you came – turn left.

After a hairpin right there is a track going off right just as the road hairpins left again. Take that track. Descend through the trees ignoring turnings to the bottom of the valley. The track meets another coming down the valley along a delightful stream. Keep left downstream. You join another track and cross a ford. Then continue on the other bank going downstream. The trail forks right crossing the stream once more over a concrete bridge. Just 40m past the bridge take the second path right going up the hill.

Climb up through fine pine and olive trees

Climb following the path, through fine pine and olive trees, going generally up, ignoring side turnings servicing olive groves. After 0.5km you meet a concrete road. Turn right going gently uphill for 150m to where a monopati turns sharp left back up the hill. Climb the wonderful monopati to Katouna village.

The monopati joins the road towards the village main square. At a sign to Karia and Lazarata this trail will go straight on, but first go left into the square and three tavernas. One is open all year closing only during afternoon in winter.

Return to the trail going left and follow the road up through the pretty village. Keep straight on climbing until you get to a large disused building with several large eucalyptus trees outside (which you can see ahead as you come through the village). Keep right then left keeping the building and trees to your immediate left. Just past the building turn right at the slightly staggered cross roads. The track is now unpaved saved for a few concrete sections past villas. As it starts to descend you see your destination at Nikiana port ahead. Skaros mountain, to the right behind the port, is your target tomorrow.

Nikiana port with Skaros mountain to right

Keep right at the first fork near building plots. Leave villas behind and descend the track about 1km to a turn off sharp right. Go right as the track becomes grassier. After another 1km go left at a T junction. After a concrete section down a steep hill go second right down the small valley.

Keep going straight on past some villas. The track joins a tarmac road over a bridge. Turn left and walk along the road following the stream until you reach the main Lefkada-Nidri road. Turn right and go a short distance around the bay into Nikiana along the wide verge. Take care as some cars go very fast. There are good swimming beaches around the bay followed by shops, tavernas and hotels along the road and in the small port.

An alternative to the short section of main road is to go right as you first join the smaller tarmac road. Walk about 1km to a T junction and then go left into Nikiana. This goes past quite a few compounds with noisy dogs.

After a rest in the tavernas you can return to your base – there are frequent buses running between Nidri and Lefkada town that stop near the port. Or stay in one of the hotels in Nikiana if on the The Lefkada Trail and tomorrow you set up Skaros on day 2 Nikiana to Karya.

If on The Lefkada Trail then there are also options to stop in Katouna overnight.

Mellisa Gorge Loop

Walk down into the delightful Mellisa Gorge in the hills above Lefkada town. This gorge is frequently mentioned in guides to Lefkada as a great place for a shady walk beside a stream in the impressive Mellisa Gorge – and indeed it is. However the path through the gorge itself is in extreme disrepair and most of the wood bridges are rotting and very dangerous. Hence you can’t safely traverse into the deepest part of the gorge. But this trail takes you to all the safe parts of the gorge and adds a loop up and back through Kavalos village to make a circular walk.

If you want an alternative gorge have a look at the Klousouria Gorge on the other side of the island.

7.8km
330m ascent
Moderate (Easy if you just visit the gorge and return)

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Many hotels, tavernas and shops in Lefkada town.

There are several walks in the gorge and valley – a nice one starting from Lefkada village. Unfortunately none of the paths in the gorge link up so you need to walk into the gorge from different directions. This trail takes in the best bits (at least as far as safety allows).

You need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. You could take the Karia bus from Lefkada town and get off at the monument, and then walk the 3km to the start.

Drive up the road out of Lefkada town towards Lazarata. About half way up there is a monument on the right hand side (commemorating the 1819 uprising against the British). Immediately in front of the monument is a narrow road going right. Follow the twisty road for 3.5km until an unsurfaced track goes downhill on the right signposted to the Mellisa Gorge. Park here without blocking the road or other tracks. A few drivers go a little down the track to park, but it is pretty rough for a car.

Start of the trail down to the Mellisa Gorge. Park here without blocking the road or track.

Head down the track going left at the first fork and then keeping on going down the hill. After a few hundred metres you reach a stream with a collapsed wooden shelter followed by a wood arch across the track. More interestingly on the left are signs of an ancient cave that has collapse leaving old stalactites on the cliff wall.

Cliff wall of old collapsed cave system.

Carry on down through the wooded valley down to the start of the gorge. Here is a stone shelter and wooden fences indicating the start of the “official” gorge hike. The gorge runs left and right with dead-ends at the end of the path for each.

Path through the Mellisa Gorge with collapsed hand rail.

First take the path to the left going up the gorge. The narrow stone-surfaced path follows the banks of a lovely stream gently climbing through trees. There used to be a wood handrail but this has almost all collapsed. However the path is easy and the biggest danger is tripping on one of the remaining metal supports. Go a few hundred metres until the path joins a track and then terminates in a grassy area. Good for a rest or picnic. Afterwards retrace your steps back down the path.

On returning to the stone shelter keep left as the stone-surfaced path heads this time downstream. Again, go a few hundred metres as the gorge starts to get narrower and steeper. You meet a track fording the stream and heading off into a valley up to the left (you will go up this track in a moment). The stone-surfaced path heads down into the gorge proper and starts to get very narrow and steep. However the path crosses over increasingly high wooden bridges over the gorge and back again – all of which are in serious disrepair. The wood floorboards are all rotting and several have already broken leaving big gaps. We recommend going no further down the gorge as it is just too dangerous. We will watch to see if they get repaired and update this trail accordingly.

The bridges are now too dangerous to cross – especially where they get higher.

If you came just to see the gorge, go back to the track you came down and hence back to your car. If you are up for the the full loop, head back only as far as that valley that went off left, now right as you are now looking the other way :-). Walk up the track climbing this lovely tree-lined valley.

The start of the valley leading away from the gorge.

Follow the track running up the base of the valley. You pass a huge quarry cliff face up on the right. Ignore the tracks heading into this quarry. Shortly after the track ends in a grassy area. Follow an indistinct path going right straight up the steep hill – just to the left of a small gully filled with thick vegetation.

Head up the steep bank to the left of the thick vegetation

After about 100m the path becomes much clearer before becoming a track zig-zagging up the steep slope. Ignore tracks leading off into olive groves and keep to the main track continuing upwards. After a long climb the track meets a surfaced road. Head left along this road.

Views back across Mellisa Gorge to Lefkada town and mainland

The road climbs, a little less steeply, around the gorge top around to the pretty village of Kavallo. You get great views across the gorge and down to Lefkada town and the mainland beyond. As you approach the village there is a crossroads (or double fork) on the saddle of a hill; take the left turn ahead. Heading into the village you can either keep to the road or take a short track running around to the left – both end up in the village. Once in the village you pass the village church with a distinctive metal lattice bell tower.

Just after the church, there is a turning off left marked back to the “Mellisa Gorge”. You will turn left down this road, but first walk 50m further past the junction where there is a small taverna on the right. After refreshment head back to the Mellisa Gorge road.

Turn to “Mellisa Gorge” in Kavallo village

The road starts to head back down around the other side of the gorge. It is down hill all the way from here. After going round a few bends, just after passing a cemetery on the right, there is a further turning left again marked towards the gorge. Go down this road as it starts to descend more steeply. After winding down through several olive groves, and passing an old stone watermill on the left, it eventually reaches the track where this trail started.