The old monopati route running from Eglouvi to Karya across a low pass below Profitas Ilias. Paired up with Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi this makes a great loop trail from either Eglouvi or Karya. Go out on one and back on the other – a great hike – one of Lefkada’s best.
4.4km. 10.7km if paired with route back over Profitas Ilias. 200m ascent. 760m ascent for the full loop, 560m with the shortcut. Moderate.
Tavernas and accommodation in Karya. Tavernas in Eglouvi.
The trail starts from the centre of Eglouvi. Here are three tavernas and a great small square shaded by a plane tree. A great place to seat and eat or drink, but today we are going walking. Head off down the road towards Karya. The road goes around a few bends and after almost 1km a track goes off left. This is the well-marked start of the monopati.
Take the track off left from the road down to Karya from Eglouvi
After 20m a second sign shows the monopati itself goes off left climbing through the trees. The monopati goes parallel to the track before starting to climb up the hillside. The monopati is well marked with yellow and red paint marks.
The monopati climbs up the hillside marked with yellow and red paint
Climb right up and over the low pass. On the far side there are a few easy rock scrambles and then a great traverse across the steep hillside. You get fantastic views across to Skaros, Nidri and down to the Inland Sea. A truly wonderful monopati.
The monopati traverses across the hillside towards Karya
After a couple of kilometers you reach a telephone mast. Follow the path around the mast and it becomes a quiet tarmac road. Almost immediately a red and yellow painted arrow on the road shows a track going off steeply down into the trees. Head down that track to reach Karya. If you are planning to walk back on Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi you can take a short-cut by instead continuing along the quiet road. Follow the road until you meet the trail heading up from Karya about 50m past a fork in the road (go left). The shortcut saves 200m of climbing.
The yellow and red marker shows the path heading down to Karya.
The path down to Karya heads down through the wonderful pine forest above Karya. It is a little steep in places but reasonably easy down through the trees. The yellow and red markers show the way. Keep going until you reach the back roads in Karya.
Inventive yellow and red paint markers on the trail.
When on the road head down left and then immediately right. A short track heads off immediately left behind a house.
A track heads off immediately left.
At the bottom the short track rejoins a road. Take the road turning first left, first right, first left, and first right again. Then straight down, round a bend left, and down to the main square in Karya. If you miss those turns just head down and you will get to the square.
The main square is delightful with great tavernas and bars clustered around a square with plane trees providing shade. This is a popular place to come, in the evening especially.
The Lefkada Trail day 3 Karya to Eglouvi trail starts at the spring in the north west corner of the square. Head back here to Eglouvi, this time climbing to the top of Profitas Ilias. You can also walk back up the road, but not nearly as interesting.
Hike from the port of Nidri, to the nearby Dimosari waterfall at Rachi, and then up the hills coming back down through the pretty Neochori village. You can use this route just to go to the waterfall and then back to Nidri – or hike up above Nidri for great views. Most of the route is shady running through trees. You need good walking shoes both for the clamber over rocks to reach the waterfall and for the short very steep ascent going up from the waterfall path.
11.8km 406m ascent Moderate (Easy if just going to the waterfall).
Nidri is a good base to stay in Lefkada. Many boats moor on the town quay. There is a regular bus from Lefkada Town.
Numerous hotels, tavernas and accommodation in Nidri.
The walk starts from the port in Nidri near the statue of Onassis. Head 50m south along the quayside and then right through the alley to Nidri main street. Cross the main street and take the road opposite with a small yellow sign to the “waterfall”.
Take the road from Nidri high street following the small “waterfall” sign.
Keep going straight up the road, past a parking area, until you reach the Nidri bypass. Carefully cross this road (cars go very fast) and take the road on the other side, to the right of the coffee shop. You keep straight on along this road following occasional signs to the waterfall. Keep straight on through the small Rachi village. Pass olive and lemon groves, a small football pitch, and a delightful stream – until you get to the waterfall parking area. If you are driving to Nidri you can park here as an alternate start for this trail.
Head up the path past the Plane Tree café and shop (a nice peaceful spot for a refreshment break) and on up the path towards the waterfall. The path runs over and under impressive big boulders until it reaches the waterfall. People bring swimming costumes and swim in the pools. It can get quite busy in summer. After enjoying the waterfall head back the way you came until just before the Plane Tree café.
Very steep path heading up on left of large water tank
Just before the Plane Tree café, as you head back from the waterfall, there is a large concrete water tank on the right of the track. On the left side of the tank a path starts climbing straight up the very steep slope. There is a rope to help with the first steepest part. It is a bit daunting but the very steep bit is short and you soon join a wonderful monopati to take you safely up through the remaining cliffs. If you can manage the start you will have no problems with the rest.
The monopati climbs up out of the waterfall gorge.
The monopati climbs up and out of the waterfall gorge until it meets a track. Turn right up the track and go for about 200m until another grassy track goes right into an olive grove. Follow the track through a few hairpin bends until you reach a quiet road. Turn left and follow the road going under a massive plane tree near a spring.
The road passes under a massive plane tree near a spring
Follow the road until you reach a T junction with a larger road. Turn right about 50m and take the first unsurfaced track going left slightly up by a house. After 50m the track forks and you take the left fork. The track traverses across the hill through the trees with great views down to Nidri. After 500m the track forks again, take the left track going slightly down almost parallel to the right-going track. After 80m the track turns into a rough path over rocks descending towards a stream in the trees. Cross the stream and take the path going up the opposite bank (marked by blobs of red paint). The path wiggles through the trees to a more open olive grove. Head diagonally up and left until the path becomes a track again. That track joins another and then traverses across the hills above Nidri.
The track traversing towards Neochori with great views down to Nidri
Ignore turnings save for one upward zig zag until you reach Neochori village. After the first few houses you reach the village hall on your left. Immediately after the hall take the road left. This runs down to a pretty church where you turn left again following the road running down from Neochori. Follow the road as it sweeps round to the right and then takes a first hairpin left. Fully around the hairpin a monopati heads right steeply down from the road (ignore the larger track at the hairpin itself). The monopati runs down below the road until it ends at a concrete track. Go right down the steep slope to a track at the bottom, where you go left. The track soon rejoins the road and heads down though the village of Paleokatouna (Ag. Christopher on some maps).
When you reach the taverna take the small road going right (appears straight on as the road turns left). Walk straight down the road going slightly right, then left, then left again (although generally straight on). You meet the main Lefkada-Vasaliki road at the Nidri bypass turning. Take the road heading directly into Nidri and then the first track off right heading down to the sea. Go left and follow the road back into Nidri along the waters edge to your starting point.
A beautiful loop between Syvros and Vournikas and the lush valley that surrounds them; above Vasiliki. The walk passes several springs, streams, waterfalls, and old water mills (the water runs all year). This superb classic route has been recently cleared and revived by the Antelikos Sivros Cultural Club led by the inspiring Vasilis Deftereos. They will happily guide you round and tell you the history of this ancient part of Lefkada. Do not miss the chance of walking with them.
The Springs Pathway is now marked with clear signs. Confusingly the route had been marked using red paint several times taking different routes each time. Most recently a mountain race was run using part of the route. The best advice is to ignore the red painted blobs and arrows at the junctions of roads and tracks, often they point in completely the wrong direction. The new signs make the trail much easier to follow. Still a good idea to have the GPX trail in your phone GPS map app too. Also ignore old signs showing the whole trail on an arial photo map – it has changed since then.
One of the new signs that mark this “official” route.
The route is well shaded for most of its route and so can be used in all but the hottest mid-summer days. For optimum shade start at 9am or earlier. It is easily shortened if you don’t want to climb up to the highest spring or prefer to miss the steepest paths. You do need good walking shoes and carry a bottle of water, which you can replenish as you pass the springs (apart from the few specifically marked as do-not-drink).
You ideally need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. There is an infrequent bus to Syvros.
Tavernas and accommodation in Syvros and Vournikas.
Start from the Syvros village square. There are tavernas to take refreshment before you start. Head off on the road heading up to Agios Ilias on the north side of the square up the right of the old schoolhouse. At the first turn of the road to the left take a track going off right. After a short distance fork right and then fork left. You re-join the Agios Ilias road up right for a few metres and then take another track off right. Follow the track keeping right at each of two forks until you reach a large, paved area with a spring in an alcove of the wall and a delightful small waterfall over mossy rocks.
The first spring beside a large, paved area.
There is an option here to considerably shorten the trail and skip the steep mountain section and the highest springs. Go up the path passing directly up and behind the spring and take the track direct to the Gazina Spring (below). From there pick up the rest of this trail. You will miss two great springs and fantastic views, but it makes a much easier trail.
For the full trail, after admiring the spring, head back almost the way you came but keeping right going up the hill. After 100m a track forks off right. After a short distance the track hairpins right and a path continues straight on through an olive grove. The path rejoins another track where you keep right. Follow the track as it crosses a ford where gravel has been taken for local building projects. A track goes right just after the ford and climbs to where a path goes off left following up the course of a stream.
The start of the path heading up along a (usually dry) stream. The red arrows are safe to follow.
For this path only you can safely follow the red arrows and blobs climbing up the hill. You meet a track where you continue to follow the red arrow right. After a short distance you meet another track where you go left up the steep slope.
The track climbs up the steep slope.
Keep on climbing the hill until an almost parallel track to your right finally joins the path you are on. Keep on up for 100m until there is a group of plane trees to your left. In the midst of the trees is a very welcome spring. This is the highest point of this trail. Stop for a while drinking the clear water.
The highest spring on the trail and the welcome shade of the large plane trees.
After a break head back down the track you came up but this time keeping on the left-hand parallel track as it heads down and across the steep hillside. This section gives you fantastic views over the Vasiliki valley. The track passes some goat sheds up on the left but keep going down and across the slope.
The track traversing down the steep hillside with views of the Vasaliki valley. Note the welcome shade provided by an early start on this route.
The track becomes less clear as it traverses across the hillside. After about 1km the track becomes a monopati and becomes very steep and scrambly. Take care. Ignore paths heading down the hillside and keep going across the slope.
Eventually you meet a path with marked yellow blobs going left straight up the hill – don’t go up, keep going across and slightly down. After about 200m you arrive at the Klimatsa Spring with two white columns in the water. This spring is very pretty but the water is currently not safe to drink. The Klimatsa Spring is associated with ancient pagan rites here and on a nearby rock.
Pretty Klimatsa Spring with two white columns. You arrive down the track on the right and leave down track on the left.
Take the path going back past the spring on the downhill side. Follow a track threading between the old stone buildings of Vournikas, some sadly derelict. It is safe to follow the red paint blobs for this section. Reach a surfaced track and almost immediately the covered Gazina Spring beside a cool pond. Take a look at the stone basins that were used to wash clothes. The water is very good to drink.
The covered Gazina Spring and pond with old stone clothes-washing basins.
After refreshing take a path that goes off down directly below the pond. There are steps at first and then a surfaced footpath. The footpath becomes a surfaced track. Almost immediately turn left and then right. Join a tarmacked road zig zagging down the hill. After two zigzags a track goes off right. After 300m the track crosses another road and then continues down the hill. Just after crossing the road a track goes off left. Go 70m down that track to the Kanali Spring before returning and continuing down the track to the right.
The track is concreted for most of the way. It descends a valley down to another tarmacked road. This is the lowest point of the Springs Walk. Follow the road right as it goes up for about 200m. On the right is a track signposted to the Daphne Spring.
The track goes off right signposted to the Daphne spring and waterfalls.
Take the track, past another spring, and keep right as it becomes a path, crosses a wooden bridge, and goes up the right bank of a stream passing several waterfalls. This section of the trail is very pretty.
Several pretty waterfalls along the path at Daphne spring.
Climb up beside the stream on this magical path through the trees with wild-flowers and wildlife. After 1.5km you reach a paved area and then climb some steps to a roadway.
Follow the road up right for 200m to a track going off right. Take the track keeping left until you rejoin the road again just before it passes back to the Syvros village square. This is where you started. Take more refreshment at the taverna.
A huge thanks to the Antelikos Sivros Cultural Club, especially Vasilis Deftereos who inspired this trail. They reopened this trail and regularly take groups around giving a fascinating description of the village, wildlife and fauna. Take a look in their small museum too if you get the chance (in the old schoolhouse at the start of this trail). You can also learn Greek dancing at their weekly evening session.
Follow an old monopati down into the Klousouria Gorge below Agios Ilias. Superb old monopati that navigates down past rock pinacles into this impressive gorge. Explore the gorge upstream for a while before following the monopati up the other side and looping back through the forests above Syvros. Runs back up to Ag Ilias by a different route.
I think this gorge is in some ways more impressive and has better views than the Mellisa Gorge, which appears in more tourist guides to Lefkada. However the steep drops are not fenced off so not as safe with young children.
You ideally need a car or taxi to reach the start of the trail. There is an infrequent bus to Syros from Lefkada town from where you walk up to Agios Ilias
Taverna and limited accomodation in Agios Ilias. More of both in Syvos.
Start off from the taverna in Agios Ilias. Plenty of places to park the car without blocking the road or side tracks. Head up the road following the sign to Eglouvi and Karya.
The taverna in Agios Ilias
After a short distance pass a church and monument on the left, go round a bend, and meet a road junction where the road divides into the one-way system to navigate the narrow roads through the village. Take the turning left going against the flow of cars (and so this time NOT the road signposted to Eglouvi and Karya).
Turn left to walk the wrong way up the one-way road for cars
Keep going following the road a few hundred metres up a steep slope to a flatter part just after a bend right. After 40m there is a concrete track off left next to a phone/power wood post.
Turn left at the track by the wooden pole
Keep walking down the track ignoring turnings to a gate across the track with a sign “Leader II”. At this point a monopati starts down the left side of the fence leading from the gate. Take this monopati. At first the monopati keeps close to the fence as it passes around the compound. The fence has barbed wire and an electric wire running along the top (don’t touch it!!). Don’t worry as you will soon leave this unpleasantness behind. There may be a metal “gate” to untie, open and leave as found.
As the monopati leaves the fence it starts to drop steeper into the gorge ahead. Very soon fantastic views open up to the left with some wonderful rock pinnacles framing the gorge below. Descend steeper dropping slightly right down along the ledges taken by the monopati where you eventually reach the bottom with a bridge across the stream.
Looking up the gorge from near the bridge
You will eventually take the monopati across the bridge that goes slightly right up the other side of the gorge, but before you go that way explore the gorge upstream. The stream will be dry in summer making this easy – but take care if water is flowing. Don’t do this if heavy rains or thunderstorms are likely as the gorge fills quickly. Go up as far as you wish (and water permitting) – the sides getting more precipitous the further you go. After seeing enough head back to the bridge. If you only came for the gorge then go back up the way you came down – but if up for the full loop head up to the right from the bridge.
Climb up through the trees on a widening monopati until you reach the top and meet a track. Go left around the vineyards, past an olive grove and under a tall fig tree. Starts to descend for 1km working around the low hill to your left. You get some great views over the trees to Syvros and the Vasiliki valley. Ignore the turn off right sharp and go straight on heading back to Agios Ilias village.
Great views south over Vasiliki valley
Head along the track across the slope for another 1km until you meet a ford. The track crosses the ford and heads off right. The ford is over the lower part of the gorge you crossed higher up, at the bridge. It is possible to go back up the gorge along the stream bed (if it is dry). There are a few rock climbs up waterfalls so you need to be happy using your hands and feet. Far easier is to continue along the track.
Go past a church on the left of the track
After a short distance you pass a church on the left. Keep going to meet another track. Turn left straight up the steep concrete track. At the top the track joins the road just below Agios Ilias. Turn left and go uphill until you reach the taverna where you parked your car. One of the big hairpins can be cut across by an initially concrete track.
The trail is the fifth part of the Lefkada Trail running from the base of Stavrotas over to the start of the long tail of Lefkada down to the south. The walk crosses the Vasiliki valley descending down past the magical springs and waterfalls of Syvros before climbing back up to Ag. Petros. This sets you up for the final day of the Lefkada Trail day 6 Ag. Petros to Cape Doukato.
The trail is along unsurfaced tracks and paths for much of the route – with just a few kilometres on very quiet roads.
The trail starts where we left off day 4 outside the taverna in Ag Ilias (just below entering the narrow one-way system within the main village). Head down the road towards Syvros. After 400m the road curves to the left where a log-clad house is on the right. Just before that house a concrete track goes right running down behind the house and becoming an unsurfaced track.
The track goes right off the road behind the log-clad house.
Keep right at the fork and continue until you re-join the road. Cross straight over the road and take the unsurfaced track heading down. Keep right descending down the track. For a short distance the track almost re-joins the road on the right, but continues on down. A section of the track is part-overgrown but continues as an easy path before becoming a track again. The track descends steeply on a few zig-zags until it reaches a less-steep section. On the right of the track is a large plane tree and the topmost Syvros spring. You can stop here for a rest and the water is pure and delicious.
The highest Syvros spring under the huge plane trees
Continue down the track you left to enter the spring. After 100m a second track forks right (running down just below the lefthand track gradually getting wider apart). The righthand track is less distinct so look carefully. Where you see some metal-sheet goat-sheds up to your left a track goes sharp right. After 50m a path descends straight down left. There are a number of red paint marks to follow from this point, but many of the red arrows point back the way you came (ignore that fact). Descend the steep track (take care) along a stream bed (with water in winter). At the bottom you pass a junction and then meet a track fording the stream to the left. From this point stop following red marks, and take the track left and down.
After 200m from the ford a path forks off to the left. Take the track through olive trees keeping right at the second fork until you meet a track. Go left along the track for 150m to the second spring. This one too is good to drink. There is usually a waterfall over the moss beside the path – very photogenic.
The second spring in Syvros. The mossy waterfall is behind the wall.
Head back on the track almost the way you came, but taking the track going left and down across the slope. After 200m turn left to a T junction where you go left again. Round a bend past an old watermill you re-join the road briefly. Turn left down the road and then immediately left again on another track. Keep right then left continuing down until you join the road again. Follow the road a short distance into Syvros village square with its water channels and tavernas. Time for a coffee or more.
When ready leave the square along the road to the right from where you came into the square. Go around the corner of the schoolhouse building and after 50m take the track going left. If you reach the post office you went too far. Down the track keep right and then right again. You soon re-join the road going left down hill. Just past the car service yard a paved path heads off left down to Daphne Spring.
Keep going down the Daphne Springs path for about 1.5km past the spring itself followed by several waterfalls and cascades. The path is delightful. Just below the last waterfall the path crosses a wooden bridge. Note there is another wooden bridge just before the real one leading to a dead-end. After the bridge head down left past a final spring until you re-join the road.
Bridge across the stream after the last waterfall (looking back the way you came).
Turn left down the hill, then round a right hand bend to a junction where you turn right (signposted to the cemetery). After 0.5km keep left at the road fork. After a further 1km the road turns sharply to the left and a track goes right (almost straight on).
A track goes off right on the corner of the road.
Take that track going left at the immediate first fork then turning right a little further on. Straight on until it re-joins a road. Go right along the road as it gradually climbs up the valley. After 1.2km the road passes some huge olive trees and an unsurfaced track heads off left up the valley through some trees. Take that track and climb up towards Ag. Petros.
The track goes left off the road just after some large olive trees.
Keep right and then left, generally keeping to the track zig-zagging up through the woods. When you reach a road go right and then straight up, ignoring turnings, up the very steep road into Ag Petros itself.
Here you join the main road down the west of the island. There are tavernas as well as some accommodation for the night.
This walk runs between the mountain villages of Eglouvi and Ag Ilias. It climbs up and over Mount Elati visiting the high peaks of Katharia Rachi and Stavrotas before descending to Ag. Ilias. This takes you over the highest part of Lefkada; crossing from the north to the south of the island. The trail is along monopati and unsurfaced tracks for almost all the first half of the route – with a quiet road descent on the other side.
15.5km 930m ascent Difficult (but there are shortcuts).
The trail is the fourth part of the Lefkada Trail. It is one of the hardest days as it climbs high and is long too. The full route takes you over both Katharia Rachi and Stavrotas. Katharia Rachi is the end of a ridge and has the best view in Lefkada. Stavrotas is the highest peak on Lefkada. If the day is too long for you then you can easily skip one or the other of these. But do come back when you have finished the Lefkada Trail and do what you missed on this day. Otherwise, you don’t get the T-shirt 🙂
Start in Eglouvi in the main square with the tavernas. If you haven’t got water fill up now – there will be no more drinking water until you get back down. There is a tap next to the plane tree or buy from the tavernas.
Start of three trails in Eglouvi; even the corrected distances are wrong
Go up and round to the left of the tavernas and down the narrow path to the right. You will soon see the sign for the start of three trails. You follow A4, and A1 will accompany you as far as the windmills. You follow red and yellow paint markers and A4 signs all the way to Katharia Rachi for the first part of this trail. They are pretty clear for most of the way.
Walk through the quiet village roads until you see a monopati heading up to the left up the hill. Follow this diagonally up until you reach the windmills.
Approach to the windmills. This trail goes up that ridge on the skyline.
After exploring those and enjoying the view take the track up to the right behind the windmills. Follow to a surfaced road. Turn left and follow around a few bends until there is an unsurfaced track going off right. The track has a read and yellow arrow painted on the road pointing where you need to go. Beware there is a second track a few hundred metres later also with a red and yellow arrow. Make sure you take the first.
Track off right with yellow arrow marker – note now red and yellow
The track approaches a vineyard where a monopati branches off left. It skirts around the vineyard and starts to climb the ridge. The monopati now goes up the crest of the ridge to its top. This is a steep climb but you get fantastic views all the way up – a real classic. There isn’t much shade but it is well worth the effort.
At the top of the ridge the monopati becomes a narrow track going past a very small lentil field (make sure you go round not over). The track turns right to head up to the radio masts on the top of Mnimati, but the A4 monopati actually goes straight on and slightly downwards. Make sure you don’t miss the monopati painted dots.
The monopati is now much easier following down to a small pass and then gently up the ridge to the top of the peak. Finally you get to the sign indicating the end of the A4 on Katharia Rachi.
Below you is a wonderful view down to Nidri – with all of the Inland Sea and islands behind. If you have eaten at one of the tavernas at Geni and looked up – this is the steep crag fringed peak you will have seen above you. A fantastic place to sit and enjoy the view. Stand where Odysseus did.
The end of the A4 trail. And a great place to sit and take in the view.
When you have finished looking take the path heading sharp-right almost back the way you came. The same red and yellow paint marks descend down and right down to high pass below you. After about 200m the marked path turns back left and descends more gently to the pass. The path then turns right and goes over a low hill until it reaches a T junction with an unsurfaced track. Follow the painted marks off right.
Follow the track as it winds across the high plateau. There may be wire fences to cross but most have tied “gates” where crossing the track. Leave them as you found them as they stop the cows roaming.
Track winds across the high plateau
The track eventually climbs back up to the road near the radio antenna at the top of Mnimati. At this point leave the paint-marked trail and take the road going left away from the masts.
Follow the road left away from the antenna
Descend the road for 1.5km until you reach a junction. Take the road left going down towards Ag. Ilias. After a few bends there is a track off up to the right. Here you have a choice whether to climb Stavrotas up above you or to carry on down the road to Ag Ilias. The route up Stavrotas from here is 1km long and 220m of climbing – and then back on the same route. If you do climb Stavrotas, and being Lefkada’s highest mountain you really should if able, you will eventually return to this point on the road.
The track heads into a small high valley with fields and pasture. Very shortly you reach a small hut on the left where the track divides. Take the left track running past the hut on the left hand side. There is often a dog attached to a chain blocking the track – but this is easily avoided with a path that run around to the left and then re-joins the track.
Distant view of trail up Stavrotas. Track comes up in lower left (the road just out of shot), past the hut, up to the ridge line up on the right, and then up left to the summit.
The track turns suddenly to the left and heads straight up the steep slope – at this point carry on straight ahead on the path that goes off right.
The trail is marked in both red and yellow dots and steadily climbs up the slope going diagonally to the right. It is unclear in parts so a GPS map helps. Goats don’t have GPS and make several tracks – but keep going to the ridge up and right. After a climb the path goes over a small ridge marked by two large yellow painted arrows on the rocks.
At this point a second path joins from the right marked with red dots (Stavrotas from road above Eglouvi). Carry on upwards and slightly rightwards following the red dots. Climb up the slight ridge on the left side of a small field system and up onto the steep rocks of the last part of the climb. Do not walk over the fields as they grow lentils even at this high remote spot.
Keep going up to the top. There is a slight false summit just before you get to the real summit. The real one is clearly the highest and has a small cairn, flag pole and shrine box.
The views from the top are the best in Lefkada. You can see up North over Preveza to Paxos and Corfu – South to Ithaca and Kefalonia – east to the Gulf of Corinth – west out over the Ionian Sea.
South over Ithaca and Kefalonia
Retrace your steps back down the path until you reach the road where you started up Stavrotas.
Descend down the road about 3km into Ag. Ilias village. If you use your map, there are a couple of paths down this slope as alternates to the road, but very rough and overgrown and indistinct lower down, so hard to recommend (use your discretion and scrambling ability).
The road passes a monastery and bell-tower viewpoint. Near the village the road becomes a one-way system (the roads being super narrow in the village). Best to follow the right hand side where cars also descend. Just as the road recombines there is a very welcome taverna.
Well done, you have just done the hardest day. Take a well earned rest and consider day 5 tomorrow – being much shorter and much less climbing. There is limited accommodation in Ag Ilias. There is much more accommodation and tavernas in Syvros a few km further down the road (walk taking a very good path running to the left of the winding road). Or arrange a taxi or lift back to your base. Day 5 will start back in Ag. Ilias – or in Sivros if you walk down to overnight there.
This walk runs between the mountain villages of Karya and Eglouvi. It climbs over Profitis Ilias which is a church set on a mountain top with one of the best views in Lefkada. Warning – there are hundreds of churches on peaks in Greece called Profitis Ilias. This is the 1,009 metre peak just SSW of Karya. The trail then descends down the other side to the village of Eglouvi. The trail is along monopati and unsurfaced tracks for almost all of the route.
The trail is the third part of the Lefkada Trail. It is a relatively easy short day on the Lefkada Trail – but then tomorrow, day four, is one of the hardest. You can walk it as a stand alone and walk back a different route to Karya. It is a steep climb up Profitis Ilias mountain and a steep rocky descent to Eglouvi.
Start from the town square in Karya, with all the nice tavernas and the shade of the plane trees.
Start of trail up hill between spring and bakery
This trail is marked as M4 from Karya – with red markers and arrow signs for most of the way. Go up the steep path/ narrow lane in the north west of the square, by the drinking well. There is a good baker as the path starts where you can get cheese pies for the top.
Follow M4 red arrows
Follow up through the steeply climbing streets going straight up – but bear a little left at first and then a little right. The path narrows and reaches a turning right up stairs. The M4 red arrows show you the way.
Turn right up stairs
At top of stairs you reach a road. Turn right and go a short distance to a monopati heading up the hill left.
The first section of monopati leaving the road.
The monopati zig zags up the hill passing through ruined stone buildings and past a small church. The path then goes left to meet a road on a sharp bend. Go up the road until a T junction where you turn right. Very soon a monopati starts up the hill on your left.
Second monopati leaving the final bit of road out of Karya
Follow the really nice monopati up the mountain. It passes a wonderful natural amphitheatre full of olive trees. Keep going up through some rocky outcrops (but with a good path to keep you safe). The path is well marked by red-yellow paint marks.
As you come to the top of the hill another path joins from the right. The markers now become red-yellow-blue. At the top go left following the markers (there is a less distinct path continuing straight on down to Eglouvi direct).
When you reach the top of the ridge the vista west will open up. Below you is a quarry and over beyond that to the left is the old American communications base. Follow the red-yellow-blue markers up along the ridge until you reach a road heading up the mountain. Go left up the road.
Old American communications base above Eglouvi
Climb the twisting road up towards the top of Profitis Ilias. The odd car ventures up here, but it is being undermined by the quarry, and difficult to pass. As a walker you won’t have any problem. Stick to the road all the way to the top.
Reach the mountain top and the very pretty church of Profitis Ilias with its amazing views in all directions. Many describe this spot as being close to heaven. You can see all of the Inland Sea from here – on a clear day to the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth.
Church of Profitis Ilias looking back over the last half of this trail
Note that this peak is a drone-free zone. And you can see why many would fly drones here if permitted.
Looking down to Eglouvi and your destination for today
Head back down the road you came up. After about 100m there is a large red and yellow arrow indicating a footpath off left. Descend that path down towards the quarry. The path skirts a small field and then almost gets back to the road. Instead go straight down the slope left. The path is clearly marked with red and yellow paint markers.
Cross the quarry keeping to the path. At the bottom you meet another path coming from the right. You head down the dry streambed to the left. Again, follow the painted markers.
The junction of the A3 (coming from Profitis Ilias) and M4 (going to Karya)
The path becomes steep and rocky so take care. As it steepens the path takes the right hand side of the stream or gorge.
Looking back up the steep path
The path eventually meets a road on a hairpin bend. Go down left towards Eglouvi. After a short way paint markers show a path leaving the road and running down into the village. Take this path following back down the A3 trail. If you miss the path the road goes to the village too.
The start of the A3 trail in Eglouvi – or end of this trail for today.
Eglouvi village has three or four tavernas in the main square up a little on the right. Sit in the shade of a wonderful plane tree and relax. There is some accommodation in the village and an infrequent bus to Lefkada Town. Day four of the Lefkada Trail will take you up over Lefkada’s highest mountain and down to the south of the island.
This walk runs from Lefkada Town main square to the small harbour of Nikiana. The route passes the ruins of the ancient capital city of Lefkada, Leucas or Nirikos, where you can see sections of the huge city walls and the ancient theatre. It takes in the pretty mountain village of Katouna about half way (there are tavernas there and both ends). The trail is inland in the hills above the coast for most of its route. This way you are walking along unsurfaced tracks for much of the route and completely away from the busy coastal highway. You also get some fantastic views.
The trail is the first part of the Lefkada Trail. Also great as a one-way hike getting a bus or taxi back to Lefkada Town. It is easy walking underfoot and there is a fair amount of shade with taverna just over half way. It makes a good hot-day walk if you start early. In winter it is good for low-cloud days.
The trail starts from Lefkada main square. Go through the small streets towards the marina. At the main roundabout take the turn past the schools and then out towards the Nidri road. When you pass Lidl go right a short way to a small road going left beside a car wash. You leave leave urban for olive groves and hills.
After 200m take a track off left
After about 200m take a track off left. Keep right as this climbs up the hill.
You are walking past the site of the ancient city of Leucas or Nirikos founded in 700BC, much of it is now stones in the trees. However the walls and theatre are exposed and you can imagine some of the rest. The wall starts being visible as you get to the top of the hill but gets better defined as you go along. It is distinguishable from field walls by the huge stones and defensive positioning on the slope. It comes in from your left and then runs along the right side for about 500m.
Part way along this section is a track going down left with painted arrows coming up. You have the option to take a short diversion: go down about 100m and then take the fork off right – after another 200m you come to the ancient theatre. If the gate is closed don’t go in, but often it is not. This theatre is the first one discovered in the Ionian Islands and demonstrates the prominence of Lefkada in ancient times. Retrace back up to the main track where you left it. The sign says take no pictures – so we borrowed an official one.
The ancient theatre of Lefkada with a very small amount of planned reconstruction.
Just after the track becomes concrete, and climbs steeply, is the best part of the wall. It cross from the right to the left, with massive blocks tightly jointed together. This is just below what was the ancient acropolis for the city, up in the trees. The wall fully surrounds a square kilometre of land from here down to the water below.
The ancient city wall beside the trail
After 1km past the old city keep straight on to join another road going left. The road climbs the hill with hairpin bends. It passes the very pretty Ag. Nikolaos church and then traverses along the fir-clad hills of northern Lefkada.
Passing a very pretty church of Ag. Nikolaos
The road keeps changing between unsurfaced and concrete (usually on the steep bits). After 1.5km there is a road going left by a brown sign in Greek pointing back the way you came. Take the road left descending the hill.
Brown sign pointing back the way you came – turn left.
After a hairpin right there is a track going off right just as the road hairpins left again. Take that track. Descend through the trees ignoring turnings to the bottom of the valley. The track meets another coming down the valley along a delightful stream. Keep left downstream. You join another track and cross a ford. Then continue on the other bank going downstream. The trail forks right crossing the stream once more over a concrete bridge. Just 40m past the bridge take the second path right going up the hill.
Climb up through fine pine and olive trees
Climb following the path, through fine pine and olive trees, going generally up, ignoring side turnings servicing olive groves. After 0.5km you meet a concrete road. Turn right going gently uphill for 150m to where a monopati turns sharp left back up the hill. Climb the wonderful monopati to Katouna village.
Wonderful monopati goes up to Katouna
The monopati joins the road towards the village main square. At a sign to Karia and Lazarata this trail will go straight on, but first go left into the square and three tavernas. One is open all year closing only during afternoon in winter.
Katouna village square with tavernas
Return to the trail going left and follow the road up through the pretty village. Keep straight on climbing until you get to a large disused building with several large eucalyptus trees outside (which you can see ahead as you come through the village). Keep right then left keeping the building and trees to your immediate left. Just past the building turn right at the slightly staggered cross roads. The track is now unpaved saved for a few concrete sections past villas. As it starts to descend you see your destination at Nikiana port ahead. Skaros mountain, to the right behind the port, is your target tomorrow.
Nikiana port with Skaros mountain to right
Keep right at the first fork near building plots. Leave villas behind and descend the track about 1km to a turn off sharp right. Go right as the track becomes grassier. After another 1km go left at a T junction. After a concrete section down a steep hill go second right down the small valley.
Turn second right down the small valley
Keep going straight on past some villas. The track joins a tarmac road over a bridge. Turn left and walk along the road following the stream until you reach the main Lefkada-Nidri road. Turn right and go a short distance around the bay into Nikiana along the wide verge. Take care as some cars go very fast. There are good swimming beaches around the bay followed by shops, tavernas and hotels along the road and in the small port.
Nikiana port
An alternative to the short section of main road is to go right as you first join the smaller tarmac road. Walk about 1km to a T junction and then go left into Nikiana. This goes past quite a few compounds with noisy dogs.
After a rest in the tavernas you can return to your base – there are frequent buses running between Nidri and Lefkada town that stop near the port. Or stay in one of the hotels in Nikiana if on the The Lefkada Trail and tomorrow you set up Skaros on day 2 Nikiana to Karya.
If on The Lefkada Trail then there are also options to stop in Katouna overnight.
This walk runs from the mountain village of Ag Petros down to the cape and lighthouse on the south tip of Lefkada. It follows a set of tracks running through the pine forests on the long tail of Lefkada. The trail is mostly monopati and unsurfaced tracks for the the first half of the route – there are fairly quiet (depending on season) surfaced roads as you get near the cape. It gets pretty remote down at the cape.
An alternate start is from Vasiliki. Walk across the bay and climb the steep zigzag path straight up to the the pass. Keep over to the right near the top and join the track described below just after the mobile phone masts.
The trail is the sixth and final part of the Lefkada Trail taking you down to the southern tip. It is a relatively easy walking (but long) and gives a fine range of views as you head down to the cape.
Start off from Agios Petros heading up on the road towards Chortata. Keep going out of the village through the large pines. Be careful of cars as it is a busy road. After 500m there is a concrete ramp up left leading to an unsurfaced track heading back south.
Turn left on the track 500m north of Agios Petros
The track runs across the slope and gently climbs. You get great views out over the Vasiliki valley and beyond to the south coast of Lefkada. Vasiliki has a long-held world reputation for windsurfing and you will likely see surfers in action in the bay. The hill you are on generates regular afternoon breezes which, combined with the sheltered flat-waters, makes perfect windsurfing conditions.
The view down to Vasiliki
After 3km you pass mobile phone masts to the left then right – ignore the forks left then right to those mast – keep straight between them. You then curve right up to the pass between Kouforpodi and Mega Vouno. After you go over the pass (just before a concrete rain-collection tank) you get to a very muddled crossroads with paths going everywhere. You want a clear track going left along the ridge south.
The track heading south just after turning left at the muddled crossroads
The track now follows below the ridge line as you head south. You get great views down the steep fir covered steep slopes to the west coast of Lefkada. After 4.5km you descend to a tarmac road. Turn left along the road. Almost immediately there is a summer-only kiosk selling drinks and snacks. Past this after 400m there is track heading right down the slope. There is a “40km” sign right beside the turning (but not 40km for this trail).
Turn right down the track at the 40km sign
The trail descends down the hill. Keep straight on at all turnings keep heading south and down along the coast. After about 1.5km you reach a track turning sharp right just above a new cluster of small villas. Take that track down past the villas to a road.
Turn sharp left to the track descending down and past some new small villas.
You meet a tarmac road where you turn left. This road runs to the famous Porto Katsiki beach which attracts quite a few visitors in summer. Fortunately you only go 200m.
Turn left onto the track just before the concrete water tank.
The road goes round a corner to the left where a track goes left just before a concrete water tank. Take the track that slowly climbs up across the hill round the top of the bay towards a phone mast near the top.
The cliffs, turquiose sea and beaches of the west coast of Lefkada
When you reach the phone mast take a look back for a great view of the west coast of Lefkada – with its white cliffs cascading down to turquoise seas and golden beaches. Turn back south along the track another 50m for the opposite view south. Now you see your destination with the lighthouse at Cape Doukato with Ithaca and Kefalonia beyond.
The last 5km ahead down to the cape and the end of the trail
Take the short track right to join the tarmac road going right. After 50m the road hairpins to the left and a path takes a shortcut right to join the road again and the next hairpin further down the slope. You now rejoin the road and almost immediately take a turning right towards the cape.
You now follow the road for 5km to the cape. The long tail of the island is very narrow (almost a knife edge in parts) and so only really room for the road. The views are stunning to compensate. Keep one eye watching for cars heading for the cape.
The knife edge road approaches the lighthouse on the cape
Just before you reach the lighthouse car park a track goes off to the left running below and parallel to the road. That track continues past the car park and continues the last few hundred metres over the rocks to the cape itself. If you miss the left turn take the track at the end of the car park and scramble left down to the track before it gets to the cape.
The white cliffs of the cape have been a landmark (or rather seamark) for centuries. They showed the way as boats headed too or from Italy and Sicily. “Lefkas” is greek for “white”, and so likely gave the island its name. A temple to Apollo once stood here, now just a few rocks left. It was said that Zeus used to rest here between his many love affairs. This lead to the belief that throwing oneself from the cliff would “cure” unwanted love. The goddess Aphrodite and the poet Sappho both attempted the feat. Neither survived, so in some senses it worked. Not recommended though.
The end of the trail at Doukato Point
Sit down. Have a celebratory drink / chocolate bar / cheese pie – whatever you have. Take in the view across the sea and also consider what you have seen and achieved over the last six days. Well done, you join the roll call of the Lefkada Trail veterans.
Best plan is to arrange for a friend, partner or taxi to collect you from the lighthouse car park. Take a look at the lighthouse and the impressive cliffs to the west of the cape as you wait for the lift. If uber fit you could walk back to Vasiliki sticking to the road – or back to Porto Katsiki beach to pick up an infrequent bus. But I think you have earnt a taxi.
Do tell us about it on Instagram @lefkadatrailsor Facebook. We will use your experience to help improve this website and guide future trail walkers. Not only that, but the early pioneer walkers of the whole trail that tell us online will get free T shirts.
Free T shirt for the early walkers of the whole trail
This walk runs from the small harbour of Nikiana to the mountain village of Karya. It climbs up and over Skaros mountain, past Alexandros, and across the Livadi polje (see below) to the mountain village of Karya. The trail is along monopati and unsurfaced tracks for almost all the route. You also get some fantastic views and walk through hidden wildlife paradises. This is probably one of the most varied trails on this website; it takes you from sea to mountains.
This works well as a day walk, get a bus/taxi to Nikiana and then back same from Karya. Or walk just part of the trail; Alexandros to Karya being good as a short gentle route.
Accommodation and tavernas in both Nikiana and Karya.
Frequent bus runs between Nikiana (from Nidri) and Lefkada Town. Also an infrequent bus to Karya to Lefkada Town. You ideally need to use a taxi or have a friend/partner that drives.
The trail is the second day of the Lefkada Trail. It is a steep climb up Skaros mountain – then easy tracks across to Karya via Kollyvata and Alexandros.
The trail starts in Nikiana. Follow the signs to the Crystal Waters hotel and go to the uphill side of the hotel. From there a surfaced but narrow and rough road climbs straight up the hill. Go round four hairpin bends climbing out the village and heading up the road through olive groves. In the middle of a straight section a track forks off slightly downhill on the left. The track is surfaced in concrete for the first 10m and marked by a painted orange arrow.
Trail goes left from road from Nikiana to Kollyvata
After a few hundred metres the track forks. Keep right climbing gradually up the hillside (ignoring two villa driveways).
Take the right track at the fork
After a few hundred metres more a monopati fork right off the track. Follow this path sloping up the hill.
Take the right monopati at the second fork
The monopati turn right and starts to climb up the right hand side of a stream-bed zig zagging up the hill. The trail is marked with orange and red painted markers from here to the top. The way is very clear but don’t mistake red lichen for paint.
Superb views from the monopati as it climbs up Skaros
After a climb up the right side of the stream-bed the monopati turns right to traverse up along stone ledges heading up to the steep crags above. The monopati zig zags up again before heading back left across the base of a tall crag with a small cave just above the path. The monopati zig zags up through a gully taking a clever and safe route up to the top.
The monopati cleverly twists and turns over rock ledges through the crags.
All the way up there are wonderful views across the Inland Sea. You can see north up to Lefkada town, Preveza and beyond. Directly east are the mountains of the mainland. South you can see down to Scorpios and Meganisi. Take time to savour these views. Also give a cheer for those that made this classic monopati in times gone by.
Amazing view south to mainland and Skorpios
As you come over the top you enter the oak forests of Skaros. Many of these trees are hundreds of years old – although many remain relatively small. These oaks are unique to Skaros.
The path heads up a small valley and over a pass to a short descent down to the sheep and goat huts of the Skaros high pastures. To the right is the track we will follow.
Goat huts in the meadows high up on Skaros. The trail follows the track going off right.
The track right starts from a boulder with an orange “23” and arrow pointing along the track. This refers to the route of the 23km mountain run held every autumn. Follow right along the track for about 200m. At a bend in the track a big red arrow points to a monopati heading up right through the trees. Take that monopati and follow the red marks up a small wooded valley to the top where there are several very large ancient oaks.
A big red arrow shows the monopati going left in a corner of the track
Keep following the red marks as you go over the hill joining other paths coming in from the left. Keep right and start to traverse and gradually descend on the other side of the hill. The red marks get less frequent as the path becomes clearer.
The western slopes of Skaros
The trail now follows a classic monopati that traverses across and down the Skaros peaks. The path is very clear and at times you walk over a gently descending stone ledge – a marble walkway. This is possibly one of the best examples of the monopati network that once covered all of the island.
The classic monopati traversing Skaros
After 3km you pass St George’s monastery (founded in 1500s) to your left and reach a road. Go straight over the road and continue on a second monopati. This monopati runs a short distance down to a second road. Go right down to a car park behind a church and take the footpath running down the left of the church – following a dry stream bed (maybe wet if it has rained recently). At a path junction go left and down a short path beside Maria’s taverna to the road in the centre of Kollyvata.
The trail arrives in Kollyvata at the side of Maria’s taverna
Stop for refreshment if the taverna is open. Maria prefers for you to phone ahead if you want food, but she can usually give you a drink unless closed. Opening hours are irregular unless you have booked.
Turn right along the road out of Kollyvata. At the first junction keep left and go 500m across to Alexandros village. As you enter the village there is a junction with an old school on the left and a concrete watertank on the right. Take the turn right, passing between two old windmill towers and descending into a small valley. Just before you get to the bridge over the stream (likely dry) a track goes sharp left down a concrete ramp into the thick forest. Take that track.
Track turn off the road sharp left down towards the Livada polje
The track descends down a valley to the Livadi plain (or polje). A polje is an area that has no visible outlets for streams, except through the limestone surface. Indeed Livadi is usually flooded in winter. Most paths are on causeway and passable but be prepared for short detours if rains have been very heavy recently. It is a magical place when flooded with lots of wildlife so possibly the best time for this walk. Karya village, your destination, is on the hill on the other side of Livadi.
Livada polje looking back from Karya with Skaros mountain on far right
Keep right on the track as it descends to the bottom of the polje. The track turns to the right and passes some tall trees. Here is divides. If you go left the path runs straight across the polje, crossing one road before reaching a second. If it isn’t flooded go that way. If that way is flooded, instead go straight on along the base of an earth dam (to your right) directly to the road. Take the road left crossing directly towards Karya.
Tracks on causeways over the flooded Livada polje towards Karya (photo taken in December)
As you reach the far side of the polje keep going straight on on the road past some farm sheds and climb the steep wooded slopes up to Karya. The road zigzags up joining another road coming up from the left. A little way after a hairpin left a road turns off right going up. Take that road and keep straight on, through Karya village, past a school, until you get to the village square.
Karya town square
Karya square is a delightful place to rest. There are several tavernas, cafes and shops around the square shaded by large plane trees. Accommodation is available in the village and a bus connects back to Lefkada town.
